I
couldn’t believe that it had been three whole Months since the last
meet-up of the collective inhabitants from my former workplace; three
months in which I was supposed to be locating an appropriate outlet
for our next foodie foray. You may recall my anxiety at having to
cater for a large party of varying tastes and juxtaposed preferences
and as such, I again leant towards ‘the safe bet’; booking a
table at ZERODEGREES Microbrewery; a venue which not only offers a
contemporary line-up of hand-crafted beers but also an extensive menu
of pizzas, pastas and grills that I’d envisaged were bound to hit
the spot...
Date
and Time: Wednesday 13th June 2012, 19:30
Name
of Establishment: ZERODEGREES Microbrewery*
Location:
53 Colston Street, Bristol
Reason
for visit: Co-worker chow-down
As
the flagship branch of a four-part franchise, Bristol's version of
ZEROZEGREES is described as a pairing of 'substance and style',
effectively shaping the functionality of its large and lofty space to
create an edgy, almost futuristic feel. Here, pipelines gleam
overhead and sizeable steel vats facilitate an intriguing focal point
whilst encompassing the USP of the venue itself. Channelling a sense
of factory finesse, this is an establishment that embodies its
surroundings and in fact, I'd noted how the mechanics of the brewery
had been incorporated within the historic presence of Bristol’s
Christmas Steps whilst climbing towards the neon blue wording above
the main entrance from the back-streets below. It also lends to the
area, a example of sustainability; its wooden-cladding and mish-mash
of building materials providing a notable contrast to the drab
concrete that is commonplace within its proximity. Plus, perhaps
reflecting its somewhat detached existence, as well as the cool
ambiance of its interior, service is really rather aloof. Yes,
although our table awaited us, we were not rushed to take our seats,
(despite how busy the restaurant had become) – in fact, we ended up
asking when it was appropriate to do so, thinking that we’d perhaps
been forgotten altogether. This seemed to set a precedent for the
remainder of the evening whereby the blurred line between laid-back
and just plain slack meant having to campaign for attention and thus,
enduring an excruciating wait between courses. Furthermore, we found
that high ceilings and a well-attended space equalled a distinct
imbalance in terms of the acoustics – in short, there were moments
when we couldn't hear ourselves think!
When
it came to the menu, the premise of modern European favourites
transcended to four main sections; pizza, pasta, mussels and grills.
I opted for the Sweet and Spicy Italian Sausage pizza (£9.25) which
I'm afraid to say appeared rather lacking upon first look; the
roasted mixed peppers proving the prominent feature and the meat
content, distinctively sparse. Having been cooked in a traditional
stone-hearth oven, I was expecting a little more from the base which
was decidedly average to say the least – comprising the likes of an
unsuitably soggy centre and edges that bordered on charred! Others
were rather more impressed with the dishes they had chosen, the
mussels in particular (at £14.50 a kilo), were reportedly fresh,
generously portioned and intricately flavoured; in this case with
lemongrass, ginger, coconut milk, coriander and green curry paste –
yum! Now, when it comes to dessert, I'm a person who likes to
consider one's options prior to the onset of the visit at hand –
subsequently, I was relatively miffed at the distinct lack of an
online dessert menu; especially as, for me, this can function as the
‘make-or-break’ course – not to mention determine whether I
indulge in a starter. As a result, I held out for what constituted a
rather mediocre chocolate fudge cake which, although was rather
prettily plated - sporting a latticed, spun-sugar style crown - was
disappointingly dry; the microwaved middle layer of frosting not
quite saving its unpleasantly
heavy composition. Other dishes were perhaps rather better received,
an eton mess type ensemble proving the star of the show with its
well-executed balance of sweet versus tart.
As
a microbrewery, it seemed almost customary to accompany our
dinnertime decadences with one of the venue’s indigenous
beers and with so many to choose from, (from black lager to wheat ale
and fruit beers), it is easy to complement each and every dish with a
suitable brew. And, what better to cut through a (supposedly) meaty
pizza than the crisp zest of the house Pilsner with its fruity lime
notes and 100% Czech Saaz content. Not only that, ZERODEGREES'
Pilsner is without doubt a personal favourite be it reminiscent of
the great British Summertime and the festivals that grace our fair
city when the sun opts to make an entrance. Yes, although I’ll
never completely abandon my 'Pinot' habit, there’s potential to
make a beer-drinker of me yet!
In
conclusion, a reasonably-priced and enjoyable evening within an
addictively buzzy atmosphere – although the cuisine didn’t wow
me, I would certainly return for drinks; perhaps even frequent the
outside space, weather permitting! As a brewery, it’s unsurprising
that the quality of the beverages take centre stage and yet, the
fresh, innovative content of the menu seemed to promise rather more
than it fared in the flesh - if we return to the initial description
of ‘substance and style’, I'd suggest that just as the latter has
been achieved and then some, there are leaps and bounds required for
the substance element to function on a comparable level...something,
I'm sure, that isn't beyond the capabilities of the brains behind
what is an otherwise appealing venue.
And
now for the second opinion…
One
of my dining companions gave ZERODEGREES a rating of 7/10 and in
three words, suggested that it, ‘could’ve been better!’
References:
I'm afraid Zero Degrees (in Bristol, at least) is rather long past its best these days. When it opened, it was a an exciting new take on pizza, and well-executed as well.
ReplyDeleteA few years ago, they reworked the menu - cut down on some of the more exotic ingredients (the Carne Asada suffered particularly) and put the prices up. Execution is rather less consistent too; sometimes it's brilliant, other times slapdash, and possibly using less-than-field-fresh ingredients.
It's still one of my favourite Bristolian pizza places, but each time I go, I remind myself that my memories of it are sadly greater than today's reality.