Formally
the Dovecote – a Vintage Inn destroyed by fire in June 2014 – The
Ashton officially opened on 3 April 2015 with a fresh,
seasonally-inspired menu and high-spec refit... Invited to attend
before the onslaught of the general public, my dining companions and
I were treated to a comprehensive tour of the facilities before
sitting down to the fantastic dinner that ensued…
Date
and Time: Tuesday 31 March 2015, 19:30
Name of
Establishment: The Ashton
Location: Ashton Road,
Bristol
Reason for Visit: A complimentary two-course menu
tasting, (otherwise known as an offer I couldn’t refuse!)
Upon
stepping into The Ashton, it becomes apparent how much thought has
gone into its new lease of life as a ‘concept establishment’
whereby a country-club style ambiance is the culmination of rustic
wooden furniture, tasteful minimalism, roaring feature fireplaces and
creamy-coloured décor. Our party were ushered towards the first
floor function rooms; sinking into plush carpets whilst exploring the
potential for private dining and corporate meet-ups. Although large
tables and throne-sized seating may well limit the capacity of each
room, we thought that this would not necessarily lessen their appeal
given that the upstairs space is available to hire free of charge,
(not to mention if a little manoeuvring could take place!) At our
table, we sipped at our chosen beverages, selecting from a broad
range of wines, beers and cocktails; our server directing me towards
a Romanian Sauvignon Blanc which, as promised, was suitably
refreshing; leaving a lemon-lime acidity on the palate. We nibbled at
toasted chickpeas and edamame which had mysteriously lost their
crunch – the rustic bread faring rather better; served alongside
plump green ‘Nocellara’ olives, dukkah and a rich-tasting olive
oil.
 |
| Crusted Brie |
 |
| Scallops of the Day |
At this
point, I should mention the service which was consistently on-point
throughout the evening. Despite first-day nerves and minor teething
problems, the staff we encountered were friendly and helpful;
projecting a genuine sense of pride, especially in terms of the menu
which proved extensive and diverse. Here, contemporary British fare
is delivered with innovative twists and at times, experimental
aspects which, if truth be told, were not always well-received and in
my view, not entirely necessary. This leads me on to the main courses
which arrived after a reasonable pause – the malted pear which
accompanied the venison steak (£17.95) a perfect example of said
experimentation; its obscure presence the only element of this
ensemble that left its recipient cold. Others ordered the 28 day
dry-aged Casterbridge rib-eye steak (£20.95) which, as per the
venison, was amply executed; pink to the eye and tender to taste.
Since the lamb rump (my primary selection) was unavailable, I opted
for the slow-cooked pork belly (£17.95) which, although found to be
a little fatty in places was oh-so-tasty – its ginger beer glaze
establishing that lovely contrast between sweet and salt. In fact,
beautifully juxtaposing both texture and taste, this dish constituted
my top indulgences; melt-in-the-mouth scallops, creamy mash, crisp
green beans and the salty scrunch of crackling – yum! That said,
the addition of a Bramley apple and vanilla purée was perhaps a step
too far; its fragile sweetness almost insipid and certainly not what
one would expect to drizzle over what was otherwise a succulent hunk
of pig!
 |
| Rib-Eye |
 |
| Venison Steak |
Initially unanimous in our decision to resist the
dessert menu, my dining companions and I soon caved in the face of
warm chocolate brownie, sticky toffee pudding and English custard
tart (all £5.95) – the latter the only dish receiving criticism
given its bland disposition and distinct lack of wobble, (which it's
fair to say had been eagerly anticipated)!
 |
| Pudding Porn #1 : Sticky Toffee |
 |
| Pudding Porn #2 : Chocolate Brownie |
In conclusion,The
Ashton is a comfortable, sophisticated retreat with a dynamic menu
and service which suitably reflects the calibre of the space - a
space which has been thoughtfully arranged in terms of its aesthetes
whereby mood lighting and a subtle soundtrack (interrupted only
momentarily by the fire alarm) resulted in an altogether enjoyable
dining experience. As the majority of our dishes were received on a
complimentary basis, the group agreed that we ordered without the
usual financial limitations that might otherwise work against us. We
therefore questioned whether The Ashton would typically be a venue
we’d choose outside of that ‘special occasion’ remit. I mean,
although it would be a fantastic location for a family celebration,
anniversary dinner or a date with the wow-factor (take note guys),
it’s not your average gastropub...which is fine of course depending
on its intended clientèle. An affordable set menu could be the way
forward here if it transpires that the top-end prices put people off.
Personally, I have plans to return for Sunday lunch (based solely on
the quality of the meat sampled thus far), plus for a spot of
alfresco drinking given the picturesque outside space that overlooks
the rolling hills of the nearby Ashton Court Estate. All we need now
is a little summer sunshine to bring the latter to life…until
then!
And now for the collective opinion…
Our group gave
The Ashton a rating of 7/10 and in three words, suggested that those
at the helm of its reinvention would be wise to, 'keep it simple';
losing those aforementioned quirks as the quality of the ingredients
speak for themselves...
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