No. 4 Clifton Village…Revisited

Date and Time: Thursday 10 April 2014, 19:00

Name of Establishment: No. 4 Clifton Village*
Location: Rodney Place, Clifton
Reason for Visit: A refurb' which prompted a return-visit.

A chilly reception?

Set within the timeless composure of an authentic Georgian mansion, No. 4 Clifton Village restaurant and bar is part of an independently owned and operated venue which includes the Rodney Hotel. Having initially visited this award-winning venue back in August 2012 and writing what can only be described as a glowing report, I was interested to learn of the restaurant’s ‘total refurbishment’; accepting an invitation to re-run the fun in order to experience their shiny, new space. The thing is, although the décor was decidedly improved; having retained its original elegance yet brightening the overall ambiance with funky wallpaper and a focal light fitting, this had no bearing on the all-important culinary aspect; the fare proving a comparable standard to that of my previous visit and the menu almost identical in terms of its content. Subsequently, you can consider both the positive and the negative implications of this finding whereby all my original plus-points apply (locally-sourced ingredients; check, quality not quantity in terms of the menu’s content; check, expertly-executed dishes which were both well-presented and delicious; check and check) and yet on the other hand, noting the lack of imagination applied to refreshing the menu from season to season. I mean – I distinctly remember ordering the glazed Chantenay carrots alongside the breast of chicken prior to this visit which, available again a good 20 months later, seemed to indicate that the next transformation of this venue should perhaps include the menu!

That light-bulb moment...

Back to the evening at hand and although the bar area was familiarly well-stocked, it was not quite as inviting as the scatter cushions and sporadically-arranged seating had proven beforehand. Instead, an angular lay-out and cold colour-scheme had created an almost clinical essence which was, without doubt, a far cry from what had existed previously and, I felt, not particularly in keeping with the vibrant hues at-large in the dining room. The service however, had vastly improved whereby a friendly, happy-to-help attitude remained intact throughout the course of the evening.

Esca-peas!

In the restaurant, I decided upon the fillet of cod (£13.50) which, beautifully plated, was fresh and succulent. The lemon and thyme crumble was an inventive topping; bitter-sweet on the palate and therefore suitably contrasting the fish both in terms of texture and taste. That said, there were a couple of surprise elements to the dish given that the garden peas billed to accompany the main event were nowhere to be seen and in their place, a sporadic dollop of what tasted a little like parsnip purée – an addition which, to be fair, didn’t really enhance what was otherwise an appetising and visually appealing plate of food. The chocolate torte (£5.95) was also well-received, though again, different in the flesh than detailed on the menu. This had been drizzled with a tart orange syrup (as promised) yet in the place of the Chantilly cream sat a mixed berry compote which really didn’t compliment the ensemble at all and even once the dish had been flourished with a quenelle of cream (at my request), the berries remained untouched which seemed rather a shame.

Berry delicious

Overall, the most valuable revision, in my view at least, was the introduction of the Monday-Thursday money-savers. The ‘special occasion’ remit which I had previously applied to this establishment challenged somewhat by the likes of ‘2 for £10 Tuesday’; which denotes two courses for a tenner and ‘Thirsty Thursday’; whereby every main course purchased can be washed down with a complimentary glass of Prosecco – great news for the penny-pinchers amongst us, present company included! All in all, those at the helm of this refresh have succeeded in making this a brighter, more affordable venue for everyday dining and yet, to determine repeat-custom, I’d suggest considerably varying the dishes available on a regular basis...Surely adhering to a Modern European theme has so much more to give?!

Affordable eating

References:
*http://www.no4cliftonvillage.co.uk/food/

Byzantium - Portwall Lane, Bristol

It really was a case of third time lucky when it came to reviewing Byzantium – the basis of the second visit was due to the shortcomings of the first* and the third was due to the fact that when we arrived on the second, house-mate 'B' and I were the only two people in the restaurant – a phenomena (amounted to the adverse weather conditions in this case whereby a dusting of snow causes a National stand-still) which would have unquestionably resulted in a complete lack of ambiance. Subsequently, we opted to postpone our visit to a later date...cue visit three which unfolded as per the ramblings that follow... 

Date and Time: Saturday 26^th January 2013, 19:30 
Name of Establishment: Byzantium* 
Location: 2 Portwall Lane, Bristol 
Reason for Visit: A good-will gesture entitling myself and 'B' to dinner-for-two – a measure which, despite saving us a small fortune, did not impact on the content of this review in any shape or form...

Pushing open the heavy, iron-clad doors to reveal the rich colours, unique décor and Mediterranean-style buzz of Byzantium is typically quite a treat – the careful contrast between its air of opulence and the humility of its rustic charm is certainly a million miles away from the nondescript warehouse that the space once was. Its name – just in case you were wondering – refers to the ancient capital of the Eastern Roman Empire – a fact which lends an identity to the cavernous curiousness which extends beyond the pillared atrium (and after-hours dance floor) to the well-stocked bar area and again, to the candlelit restaurant to be found at the summit of the venue's sweeping marble staircase. Even the toilets, complete with modern beaten copper sinks and the brass urns that have been regenerated to incorporate plumbed-in taps, are perfectly in keeping with Byzantium's eclectic quality. That said, the aforementioned ambiance that we had hoped for given the muted manner of visit two was simply not to be. The magicians and belly dancers that have been billed to entertain diners upon occasion were no where to be seen and although there were a number of occupied tables (increasingly so as the evening progressed), the absence of any background music made for that awkward, I-feel-I-must-engage-in-whispered-conversation-with-my-dining-companion sense of unease. Our server reinforced this etiquette; conversing with us in hushed tones – yet, although this was a little off-putting, I really can't praise her enough as she was friendly, professional and efficient for the duration of our visit.

On to the food and with a menu comprising a whole host of modern Mediterranean favourites (what else), we whet our appetites with what I like to refer to as 'brolives'; a duo of, what in this case constituted, lightly-toasted bread flecked with sun-dried tomato and a ramekin of disappointingly, shop-bought-tasting olives. We actually asked for one helping of the above to share between us but given the modest quantities that ensued, we were really rather relieved that our server had misunderstood our request and brought us a portion each - I'm not actually sure what I was expecting for little more than a couple of quid but even so...! To follow, we unanimously opted for the duck ragout (£15.95); a flavoursome ensemble of succulent meatiness, smoother than smooth olive oil mash and smoked garlic chutney. The game 'chips' which completed the dish looked suspiciously like they had been sourced from the Walkers' factory and had unfortunately fallen victim to a little 'sogging' and yet, seemed to enhance the overall presentation of the dish which was commendable to say the least. Another plus point was the quality of the ingredients which, we had been informed, had been locally-sourced; the duck in particular faring tender, tasty and virtually free from fat.

Candlelit Canard!

'Brolives'

Given that January's pay-day had not yet come to fruition, we chose only to stretch to the 'house' rosé which was fruity yet crisp on the palate... That said, it's certainly worth noting that Byzantium offers an extensive wine list, not to mention a delectable assortment of cocktails.

Now, for 'afters' and although there are several plated options, it's all about the famous 'Dessert Lantern' which is made up of six miniature morsels that have been arranged over a two-tiered lantern, or tier-less metal cage on this particular occasion. Now in theory, I LOVE this concept – especially as I'm quite the glutton when it comes to anything to satisfy my sweet tooth – but I'm afraid that this didn't quite materialise with quite the same degree of pizazz that had been gloriously implied on paper. Thus, of the six, I thoroughly enjoyed only two; namely, the white chocolate eton mess (with its light consistency and subtle sweetness) and warm peanut butter cookie. That said, when it came to the latter, 'B' wasn't convinced...bestowing my good self with a double-act of soft, chewy, pea-nutty joy! Without sugar-coating the issue, I'll suggest that the others didn't even come close; the Ginger Cheesecake proving especially bland and the rum and raisin brownie described as disappointingly average.- so average in fact that I couldn't even bring myself to finish my share which, given its chocolaty disposition, is an absolute travesty. A cube of apple and rhubarb crumble and a bite-sized custard tart completed the selection; both of which were visually delicious though somewhat lacking in the taste department. You know that when you can't quite decide whether you're enjoying something enough to warrant another mouthful...yeah that...!

In conclusion, Byzantium clearly has the potential to offer the wow-factor and then some…As a licensed venue for tying the knot, there’s simply no where else like it in Bristol and, after the best part of fourteen years, I think that the issue isn't one of initial appeal, it's one of despondence which to be fair could be easily remedied with a touch more effort, (I mean, surely an empty restaurant for two Saturdays in succession would ring alarm bells with even the most unobservant among us …) It’s that familiar imbalance between substance and style and despite the pull of its decadent interior, the captivating glow from St Mary Redcliffe church - which provides the vista for the entire first floor - and the intricate assemblage of the dishes overall, there really is no excuse for mediocre cuisine at top-end prices. Maybe a little re-think is on the cards; either in terms of the menu's content or possibly in relation to those responsible for what goes on within the glass-fronted kitchen that we, the public, are unapologetically privy to. For, despite the care allocated to appropriately facilitating the *best* ingredients, the dishes they amount to are inadequately executed; well, at least on the large part. It seems to me that although the ancient city of Byzantium flourished for over one thousand years, its namesake would do well to 'up its game' if it is to survive for even a tenth of that duration...food for thought perhaps?

And now for the second opinion, 'B' gave Byzantium a rating of 4/10 and in three words, described it as, 'a big disappointment'. Incidentally, I have appended her original letter of complaint to the venue, for information.

*Initial letter of complaint, sent 23^rd December 2012: 
Morning,

I wanted to contact you after having our office Christmas meal with you on Friday evening as everyone in our group was disappointed with the night as a whole and did not feel that it was good value for money.

Firstly the plastic garden chairs were extremely uncomfortable and the food was disappointing especially the main course which was very dry. Everyone however did enjoy the desserts.

The lack of music while we were eating did make it feel as though we were sat in a Wetherspoons eating our meal.

We cannot fault the service though as the food was very quick coming out.

From the description of the night before hand we were all expecting several magicians and belly dancers, although it turned out that there was only one magician which we only saw very briefly at out table and only the one dancer.

We complained twice about the chairs but nothing was done and we were talked to as if we were complaining over nothing and told "well I didn't buy them" by one waiter. It gave us back ache, watched people nearly fall through them.... Half of the room had nice wooden chairs yet we felt like dirt on your feet. We paid £40 per head to then have out stuff cleared off of tables, furniture whipped away and dancing to the worst DJ any of us have heard in a long time. 

References: 
*http://www.byzantium.co.uk/default.aspx 
Open: Tuesday to Saturday from 17:00-2:00.
Closed: Sunday and Monday.

Square Kitchen Tasting Menu – Autumn/Winter 2012

The illustrious transition from the colourful hues of Fall to Winter's poignant chill is without doubt, my favourite time of the year. Thus, invited to indulge in the Square Kitchen's Taster Menu - which comprises seven seasonally inspired courses of Modern European fare - seemed the perfect prelude to the coming months and the abundance of warming flavours and comforting combinations that would be ultimately brought to the forefront to alleviate the impact of those dark nights and frosty mornings we are all increasingly accustomed to! Hence, stepping into the candlelit dining room; a space which had previously impressed me (as per my review of the cocktail bar on the 'lower-deck') with its decadent décor, funky exposed brickwork and 'careful minimalism', really set the scene for what would inevitably constitute an evening of attentive, informative service and truly exceptional cuisine...

Date and Time: Tuesday 2^nd October 2012, 20:30

Name of Establishment: The Square Kitchen*

Location: 14-15 Berkeley Square, Bristol

Reason for Visit: An unmissable opportunity to sample the Square Kitchen's Autumn/Winter Tasting Menu 'on the house' - though you should know that this has not, in any way, affected the review that follows...

Course One – Canapés

Truffle and thyme popcorn / Pea and ham Soup / Mackerel tartare with horseradish and cucumber

Though perhaps better described as appetisers due to how generously they had been portioned, the trio of canapés were a fantastic introduction to the level of fine-dining that my companion and I were to be treated to throughout the course of the evening. Furthermore, the attention to detail more-than set the bar for the courses to come and the experimental undertones to the varying attributes of the dish hinted at the playful nature of the theme for the evening. Most importantly though, everything was delicious – winning beginnings indeed!

Course Two – Appetiser

Seared scallop, raisin, Granny Smith

It's not often that I'm speechless (those who know me well will vouch for this) but I can honestly say that this was the most perfectly-executed scallop that I've tasted to date whereby its tender yet juicy composition had been appropriately accented with the zing of ripened apple; and this, delicately slithered so not to overpower the dish. I'm not sure that I could detect the raisin content but this certainly didn't dampen what was otherwise a triumph which essentially left us wanting more!

Course Three - Start

Battenberg of foie gras, ham hock and confit duck with piccalilli, apricot and chopped hazelnut

This course demonstrated as much skill in its construction as it did knowledge of the varying tastes and textures that would suitably complement each other. The image below really doesn't do the dish any justice as the flavoursome 'bricks' of rich-tasting charcuterie altogether facilitated that distinctive checkered battenberg effect. That said, although the ham hock and confit duck were unanimously well-received, the rich, creamy fragrance of the foie gras was deemed a little overpowering and, in some cases, left untouched by the more ethical diners in our midst. 

Course Four – Fish

Cornish turbot, pommes mousseline, pork belly and sea garnish

Combining crispy pork belly with the delicate flakiness of fresh turbot was, in my view, a touch radical and yet, with the creamiest potato purée known to man tying both aspects together it most definitely worked – you could say a contemporary take on the concept of 'surf 'n turf'!

Course Five – Meat

Venison, salsify, soil, snails, herbs, flowers and nettles

I must admit that I was both daunted and intrigued by the premise of this particular ensemble; though, imaginatively assembled to replicate a wind-swept, fall-blooming garden, it proved as visually alluring as it was appetising...Now, I’ve never eaten snails without an ample dousing of garlic butter and so, left with their naturally occurring earthiness, I can safely say that I'm not a fan! That said, the venison coupled with the make-shift soil (which had been created from de-hydrated mushrooms we later discovered) was simply fantastic.

Course Six – Pre-Dessert

Pear and whiskey with home-made sherbert

The novelty-factor of adding sherbert to a bitter-sweet concoction of pear and whiskey comprised a subtly fizzy and suitably refreshing palate-cleanser...just lovely!

Course Seven – Dessert

Thai-curry flavours: Ginger cake / Lime leaf ice cream / Lemongrass custard / Coconut and coriander panna cotta

Controversially, though dessert is usually the highlight of any meal (well for me at least), this was in fact, my least favourite of the seven courses. I think that the dominant fragrances of coriander and lime-leaf are an acquired taste at the best of times and as part of a dessert, additionally so! I also thought that the spicy meringues were a touch too far....I mean, I'm all for creativity when it comes to coupling and contrasting savoury flavours but when it comes to pudding, I'm clearly a traditionalist at heart!

To note that the Tasting Menu will set you back £55 and an accompanying wine flight is available at £19 per person. On this occasion however, I opted for a large glass of the Bosari Inzolia (£5.50 for 250ml); selected with the helpful tasting notes that categorise the more-than ample line-up of vinos. The cocktail menu is also rather enticing with a varied spectrum of composites; ranging from the familiar modern classics to the venue's avant-garde creations.

In conclusion, it's fair to say that my dining companion and I were both suitably wowed by our experience of the Square Kitchen; enjoying the overall ambiance of the establishment and, of course, the fare – which we later learned is locally sourced (where possible); utilising free-range organic Devon Rose meat and Brixham fish. Furthermore, the intended aesthetics of the seasonally-driven theme were entirely achieved and although this was perhaps taken to the extreme in places, it unquestionably showcased the imagination and culinary skill of Head Chef Gavin Lewis and his team. It's ironic that to be considered 'a square' is to be regarded as dull and rigidly conventional as judging from the dishes experienced on the evening in question, courtesy of what is without question, an innovatively assembled Tasting Menu, it's established ethos is anything but...!

And now for the second opinion...

My dining companion gave the Square Kitchen a rating of 9/10 and in three words, described the fare as, 'imaginative and well-presented'.

References:

*http://thesquareclub.com/square-kitchen/

No. 4 Clifton Village

It's fair to say that the event of remembering an unused Living Social* voucher - which entitles its holder to what basically constitutes a ‘free’ three course dinner - is comparable to finding a tenner down the back of the sofa! Thus, when the Best Foodie Friend (BFF) informed me that, on the day before pay day no less, we would embark on an evening of fine dining at No. 4 Clifton village – which, situated within a beautiful Georgian mansion, is not typically the kind of venue that one would associate with the end-of-the-month money situation, my response was underpinned with a similar sense of serendipitous joy!

Date and Time: Thursday 23^rd August 2012, 19:15

Name of Establishment: No. 4 Clifton Village*

Location: Rodney Place, Clifton

Reason for Visit: A resurrected Living Social deal

No. 4 Clifton Village is an award-winning restaurant and, as part of an independently owned and operated venue (which includes the Rodney Hotel), embodies a timely flair that fittingly adheres to its prestigious surroundings. Lofty sash windows, ornate ceilings and solid oak flooring have been married with sophisticated décor and at both the front and rear of the building are sweeping, well-kept gardens that both facilitate the many wedding photographs that are taken within them and provide a pleasant backdrop to the intimately-arranged (and really rather cosy) bar area. In fact, the BFF and I initially assumed this very position – nestling between the abundance of scatter cushions and bagging ourselves a glass of the Sicilian Borsari Inzolia each which at £5.50 for 230ml, fared rather well as an aperitif given its crisp citrus notes. And, after this brief stint in the bar – during which time, we were invited to peruse the menu in order to whet our appetites for the courses to come - the BFF and I were ushered into the restaurant where the continuation of an unfaltering stateliness (plus the subtle soundtrack playing out overhead) constituted a relaxed, almost serene ambiance – which, we noted, became less and less apparent as the evening progressed and the space became increasingly well-attended. Disappointingly, service was rather nondescript as the girls who waited our table, although polite and efficient, demonstrated as little interaction as they could verbally muster which I’m sure for some, wouldn't have been a problem (preferable perhaps) but to me, was perceived as stand-offish and at times even a little awkward.

The menu adheres to the concept of quality over quantity with a small yet varied selection of dishes which, facilitating local produce and drawing upon seasonal influences, has a distinctively modern European slant. To start, both the BFF and I ordered the chunky ham hock terrine (£6.25) which had been jewelled with carrot and celery; a technique which besides adding splashes of colour, provided an innovative contrast in terms of texture and taste. The melange of soused vegetables were a delicious accompaniment; though the teeny tiny pickled pickles were almost too cute to devour! The 'home-made focaccia', billed to arrive in the place of the crisp bruscetta that had been plated instead, was the object of a little shameless sulking on my part and, despite proving well-executed and tasty, said bruscetta didn't quite measure up in terms of what was otherwise considered a fantastically structured arrangement of edibles! With plates polished, we moved on to the main event; the slow cooked belly of pork (£16.50) for the BFF and the baked breast of chicken for me (£13.95) – both of which were beautifully presented and generously portioned. I was duly informed that the pork was melt-in-the-mouth delicious and the crackling offered admirable crunch, minus the danger of teeth-shattering tenancies! I found the chicken to be a little on the bland side and although the skin had been crisped to perfection; it lacked the presence of a much-needed sauce or marinade which would have perhaps added that necessary dimension of morishness. The rosti potato with its herb-infused drizzle was the real star of this ensemble however, with its deep, smoky undertones; flavours which seemed to appropriately compliment the sweetly glazed Chantenay carrots that the BFF and I had opted to share between us. Whilst we're on the subject, side dishes (at £3.00 each) are undoubtedly a good move given that main courses are not plied with vegetables as standard - the green beans for instance are particularly tasty – served al dente in a butter accented with garlic and shallots – yum!

Ham Hock Terrine

Breast of Chicken

Finally, let's move on to the hotly anticipated dessert course and the epic indulgence of the white and dark chocolate croissant pudding (£4.95) which, although sounding a little like a Sunday Lunch slop-it-and-see special, was an absolute triumph. Yes, this was unprecedented pudding porn in all its glory and with the swirled ying-yang effect of the chocolate, an intricately layered and surprisingly light disposition, not to mention the undeniable attention to detail whereby a delicate (though almost undetectable) Bay Leaf Anglaise secured its appeal, it was deemed visually delicious before even one bite had been taken, (to be fair I’m not sure why I expected anything less given the calibre of the courses thus far). The BFF ordered the Key Lime Pie (£6.50) which she was bemused to find had been flourished with what can only be described as a salad leaf – yet, despite this mismatched garnish fail, she enthused that her dessert was as refreshing as it was delicious – the flavours well-balanced and pronounced – hence, perfectly paired with the fluted Prosecco that (as part of the deal) had been served to conclude the proceedings.

Key Lime Time!

In conclusion, I thoroughly enjoyed my evening at No. 4 Clifton Village – the juxtaposition of what is clearly a top-end dining establishment with a refreshingly laid-back ambiance as well as the presence of an unmistakably high level of culinary expertise made this an ideal venue for a classy catch-up with the BFF. I’m not sure that this is somewhere I’d choose without a money-off voucher in tow however as, smack bang in the heart of the village equals that unparalleled Clifton-style mark-up, thus placing it (for me at least) securely within the ‘special occasion’ remit. Nevertheless, do not let this put you off...for, if you have the pennies, this is an ample outlet in which to part with them!

And now for the second opinion....

 The BFF gave No. 4 Clifton village a rating of 9/10 and in three words, chose to describe it as, 'intimate', 'elegant' and 'refined'.

References:

* http://www.livingsocial.com/united_kingdom/cities/212-bristol

* http://www.no4cliftonvillage.co.uk    

ZERODEGREES Microbrewery - Colston Street, Bristol

I couldn’t believe that it had been three whole Months since the last meet-up of the collective inhabitants from my former workplace; three months in which I was supposed to be locating an appropriate outlet for our next foodie foray. You may recall my anxiety at having to cater for a large party of varying tastes and juxtaposed preferences and as such, I again leant towards ‘the safe bet’; booking a table at ZERODEGREES Microbrewery; a venue which not only offers a contemporary line-up of hand-crafted beers but also an extensive menu of pizzas, pastas and grills that I’d envisaged were bound to hit the spot...

Date and Time: Wednesday 13^th June 2012, 19:30

Name of Establishment: ZERODEGREES Microbrewery*

Location: 53 Colston Street, Bristol

Reason for visit: Co-worker chow-down

As the flagship branch of a four-part franchise, Bristol's version of ZEROZEGREES is described as a pairing of 'substance and style', effectively shaping the functionality of its large and lofty space to create an edgy, almost futuristic feel. Here, pipelines gleam overhead and sizeable steel vats facilitate an intriguing focal point whilst encompassing the USP of the venue itself. Channelling a sense of factory finesse, this is an establishment that embodies its surroundings and in fact, I'd noted how the mechanics of the brewery had been incorporated within the historic presence of Bristol’s Christmas Steps whilst climbing towards the neon blue wording above the main entrance from the back-streets below. It also lends to the area, a example of sustainability; its wooden-cladding and mish-mash of building materials providing a notable contrast to the drab concrete that is commonplace within its proximity. Plus, perhaps reflecting its somewhat detached existence, as well as the cool ambiance of its interior, service is really rather aloof. Yes, although our table awaited us, we were not rushed to take our seats, (despite how busy the restaurant had become) – in fact, we ended up asking when it was appropriate to do so, thinking that we’d perhaps been forgotten altogether. This seemed to set a precedent for the remainder of the evening whereby the blurred line between laid-back and just plain slack meant having to campaign for attention and thus, enduring an excruciating wait between courses. Furthermore, we found that high ceilings and a well-attended space equalled a distinct imbalance in terms of the acoustics – in short, there were moments when we couldn't hear ourselves think!

When it came to the menu, the premise of modern European favourites transcended to four main sections; pizza, pasta, mussels and grills. I opted for the Sweet and Spicy Italian Sausage pizza (£9.25) which I'm afraid to say appeared rather lacking upon first look; the roasted mixed peppers proving the prominent feature and the meat content, distinctively sparse. Having been cooked in a traditional stone-hearth oven, I was expecting a little more from the base which was decidedly average to say the least – comprising the likes of an unsuitably soggy centre and edges that bordered on charred! Others were rather more impressed with the dishes they had chosen, the mussels in particular (at £14.50 a kilo), were reportedly fresh, generously portioned and intricately flavoured; in this case with lemongrass, ginger, coconut milk, coriander and green curry paste – yum! Now, when it comes to dessert, I'm a person who likes to consider one's options prior to the onset of the visit at hand – subsequently, I was relatively miffed at the distinct lack of an online dessert menu; especially as, for me, this can function as the ‘make-or-break’ course – not to mention determine whether I indulge in a starter. As a result, I held out for what constituted a rather mediocre chocolate fudge cake which, although was rather prettily plated - sporting a latticed, spun-sugar style crown - was disappointingly dry; the microwaved middle layer of frosting not quite saving its unpleasantly heavy composition. Other dishes were perhaps rather better received, an eton mess type ensemble proving the star of the show with its well-executed balance of sweet versus tart.

As a microbrewery, it seemed almost customary to accompany our dinnertime decadences with one of the venue’s indigenous beers and with so many to choose from, (from black lager to wheat ale and fruit beers), it is easy to complement each and every dish with a suitable brew. And, what better to cut through a (supposedly) meaty pizza than the crisp zest of the house Pilsner with its fruity lime notes and 100% Czech Saaz content. Not only that, ZERODEGREES' Pilsner is without doubt a personal favourite be it reminiscent of the great British Summertime and the festivals that grace our fair city when the sun opts to make an entrance. Yes, although I’ll never completely abandon my 'Pinot' habit, there’s potential to make a beer-drinker of me yet!

In conclusion, a reasonably-priced and enjoyable evening within an addictively buzzy atmosphere – although the cuisine didn’t wow me, I would certainly return for drinks; perhaps even frequent the outside space, weather permitting! As a brewery, it’s unsurprising that the quality of the beverages take centre stage and yet, the fresh, innovative content of the menu seemed to promise rather more than it fared in the flesh - if we return to the initial description of ‘substance and style’, I'd suggest that just as the latter has been achieved and then some, there are leaps and bounds required for the substance element to function on a comparable level...something, I'm sure, that isn't beyond the capabilities of the brains behind what is an otherwise appealing venue.

And now for the second opinion…

One of my dining companions gave ZERODEGREES a rating of 7/10 and in three words, suggested that it, ‘could’ve been better!’

References:

http://www.zerodegrees.co.uk/location-bristol.html

Riverstation Restaurant – The Grove, Bristol

A lot of thought went into choosing a suitable location for Friday night's dinner plans with the Best Foodie Friend (BFF). We each had our own criteria; she, a venue special enough to warrant enduring a gruelling working week for, and I, value for money due to a serious lack of funds! We agreed on Riverstation, which we discovered would (at our intended time of visit) offer their top-end modern European cuisine across three menus, each with ample choice and at an affordable price...perfect!

Date and Time: Friday 8^th July 2011, 19:00

Name of Establishment : Riverstation*

Location: The Grove, Bristol

Reason for Visit: Dinner date with the BFF

Seated within the airy top-floor restaurant overlooking the river and rainy outside terrace area, I was instantly impressed with the sophisticated vibe of this light and contemporary space. Floor-to-ceiling windows and tasteful minimalism created a spacious feel despite the venue's rapidly increasing population. With our coats whisked away for safekeeping, it was noted how friendly and efficient the service is – our server in particular made the BFF and I feel as though nothing was too much trouble and answered any questions we had with informative yet smiley responses.

The aforementioned menus were presented as follows: the à La Carte , (unfortunately just a little out of my price range on this occasion), the set menu (which changes daily and offers two courses for £14.75 and then the option of a third for an additional £3.75) and the Café Hour Menu (which offers a main meal with a drink for £9 from 6:00pm – 7:15pm Monday-Friday). BFF opted for the two-course set menu and I muddied the waters, choosing initially from the Café Hour menu and following this up with a dessert from the set menu which had particularly caught my eye!

Before our main courses arrived, our server brought a large basket of complimentary rustic breads to choose from – I selected a flavoursome fennel and sultana wholemeal and the BFF chose a hunk of the focaccia which was also reportedly delicious. It can be said that this amply whetted our appetites for main courses which were on the whole, very well received. The BFF's 'Jacob's Ladder' or, short rib of beef, was not quite as tender as she had anticipated but was satisfyingly tasty nevertheless. This was served with spinach, a velvety textured mash and peppercorn sauce which was wonderfully tangy without overpowering the dish. My main course constituted the smoked haddock and dill risotto which, I have to say, was beautifully presented (something I feel is notoriously difficult to achieve with a course of predominantly rice). The sticky indulgence of this course, was, for me, divine. The fish was light, flaky and had certainly not been scrimped upon and although clearly the dominant ingredient, the parmesan had that fresh, familiar pungency which I thoroughly enjoyed. 

Jacob's Ladder - from the Set Menu

Smoked Haddock and Dill Risotto - from the Café Hour Menu

 There wasn't much time to rest after our empty plates had been cleared as desserts were served almost immediately. As previously mentioned, I was able to choose from the set menu – namely, the warmed chocolate brownie which had been packed with walnuts and topped with a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream as well as a drizzle of chocolate sauce and a dusting of cocoa powder. Unfortunately, I was still rather full from my risotto so probably didn't enjoy this pud as much as I would have, had I been given a little more time to rest between courses. That said, it was hard to resist its rich chocolaty appeal despite the growing pain in my stomach! The BFF was served the lemon syllabub which she reported was smooth and creamy with a unmistakably boozy hit! Furthermore, the accompanying sable biscuits were delicately crisp with a melt-in-the-mouth finish.

Chocolate and Walnut Brownie - from the Set Menu

Lemon Syllabub - from the Set Menu

When it came to drinks, I settled for the house white as it had been incorporated as part of my 'Café Hour' dinner. However, I couldn't help but eye-up the cocktail menu which, for around the six-pound mark, offered an attractive choice of original creations as well as a number of classic combos. The 'Wild Plum' would have proven top of my tipple selection muddling wild turkey bourbon, choya plum liqueur, apple juice and fresh lime – delish!

I entirely enjoyed my evening at the Riverstation restaurant – with its classy ambiance and somewhat faultless fare, I certainly plan to sample more of what this venue has to offer. I may well visit the Bar+Kitchen next time, perhaps for a spot of brunch or a cocktail or two. After all, if other aspects of this venue are of a similar quality to those experienced by the BFF and I, I'd certainly be onto a winner!

And now for the second opinion...

The BFF gave Riverstation a rating of 9/10 and in three words described her experience as, 'elegant, nuanced and tasty'.

References:

*http://www.riverstation.co.uk