Bridge Café, Clifton – at Avon Gorge Hotel

Given my affinity with the snuggle-factor of Autumn/Winter fare (or in fact anything intended to give you the warm and fuzzies), I was delighted to accept an invitation to sample dishes from the new seasonal menu at The Bridge Café; a menu created by Head chef Marcus Bradley, who strives to keep dishes ‘as simple as possible [in order] to retain their authenticity’. Yet, innovative tweaks to what could otherwise be considered great British classics lend to the dishes a notable flair; serving-up a degree of style as well as top-quality comfort food.

Date and time: Tuesday 18 November 2014, 19:30

Name of Establishment: Bridge Café, Clifton

Location: Avon Gorge Hotel, Sion Hill, Bristol*

Reason for visit: An invitation to dine from the newly launched Autumn/Winter menu on a complimentary basis...a no-brainer really!

Appropriately named given its proximity to what is arguably Bristol's most iconic landmark (which, on this occasion, was majestically lit up against the night sky…and just a couple of weeks shy of the pomp of its 150th birthday celebrations no less), the Bridge Café is the long-running eatery within the Avon Gorge Hotel. Minimalistically furnished and intimately arranged, this is not a particularly sizeable space, especially if you're used to visiting in the summer time (as per my last visit) when the sliding doors are open to the elements; creating an airier, almost al fresco dining experience. That said, my dining companion and I were given a table-for-two with a view; that is, with an uninterrupted view of the aforementioned backdrop. Service was also warm and accommodating; demonstrating the perfect balance between attentive and unintrusive.

Eligible Edibles

We started with drinks, an aromatic (suitably Kiwi) Sauvignon Blanc for me and a Pinot Grigio Blush for my companion. We acknowledged the familiar Clifton price-tags, (nothing under a fiver here!) and yet couldn't resist indulging in a second glass as the evening progressed. On to the food and after feasting on artisan focaccia and seeded wholemeal, we moved on to a starter of Devon pan-seared scallops (£9.25) which had been attractively plated alongside crispy pork belly and cumin spiced carrot puree. Finished with an orange dressing, this was an exciting medley of flavours which were exquisitely contrasted in terms of texture and taste. In fact, our only criticism was that the scallops themselves appeared a little anaemic having not been finished with that signature pan-fried crust. After an appropriate wait, our main courses were served; for my dining companion, the Savernake Forest roasted breast of pheasant (£14.95) which was served, a little untidily, with (a generously sized) fondant potato, braised red cabbage and Crimbo-style pigs in blankets! A heady red wine sauce completed the ensemble; an ensemble that she described as, quite simply, delicious. I chose the chargrilled venison steak (£14.50) which was rich in taste and tender on the palate. The sticky port, juniper and redcurrant glaze was flavoursome yet not too overpowering – served separately to allow for as liberal an application as desired. Thus, it didn’t soak the game chips which actually masqueraded as latticed crisps; a welcome variation to thick potato wedges or skinny fries that you'd almost certainly choose between elsewhere.

This main's got game!?

You have no i-'deer' how good this was...!

When it came to desserts, I opted for the Bridge Café's take on the classic chocolate fondant (£6.95) which had been jewelled with marshmallows and scattered with blackberries. This was a thoughtful arrangement whereby the acidity of the fruit offset the sweetness of what were clearly homemade confectionaries, (I don't know about you but I can always tell when something has been baked with love!) and complemented the bitter-sweet chocolate which oozed from its cakey encasement. Its overall disposition confirmed an expertly executed pud! My dining companion chose the rice pudding (£5.95) which she commended for its decadently creamy consistency. She wasn't convinced by the poached pear which served as its slightly obscure accompaniment however, suggesting that this would have been better replaced with a compote of sorts. Instead, the pear proved somewhat overbearing given its intense aroma; you might say rather like an unwelcome smell in a confined space! The almond brittle just about made up for this shortcoming with its idiosyncratic crunch and burnt-sugar scent. Desserts were washed down with cappuccino which was a little on the cool side but drinkable nevertheless; not marring our opinion of the evening which had been on the large part, laden with positives. 

It didn't look this tidy for long...

Paying the price for rice that's nice!



Overall, my dining companion and I thoroughly enjoyed our evening at the Bridge Café. We thought that it was a little pricey and thus, suited to a special occasion rather than an everyday eatery and yet, weekly themed nights; Sunday evening’s Wine Night (50% off all wine and champagne when purchasing a main course), Wednesday evening’s ‘Pie Night’ and Thursday evening’s steak night for example, offers an array of affordable options to those in the know. Plus, with panoramic views of the Clifton Suspension Bridge and Avon Gorge, the restaurant really ticks all the boxes when it comes to the wow-factor - luckily both the service and the fare altogether follows suit.

And now for the second opinion…

My dining companion gave The Bridge Café a rating of 8/10 and in three words, described the venue as a a ‘special occasion must’.

References:

* http://www.theavongorge.com/the-bridge-cafe/welcome-1

Square Kitchen Tasting Menu – Autumn/Winter 2012

The illustrious transition from the colourful hues of Fall to Winter's poignant chill is without doubt, my favourite time of the year. Thus, invited to indulge in the Square Kitchen's Taster Menu - which comprises seven seasonally inspired courses of Modern European fare - seemed the perfect prelude to the coming months and the abundance of warming flavours and comforting combinations that would be ultimately brought to the forefront to alleviate the impact of those dark nights and frosty mornings we are all increasingly accustomed to! Hence, stepping into the candlelit dining room; a space which had previously impressed me (as per my review of the cocktail bar on the 'lower-deck') with its decadent décor, funky exposed brickwork and 'careful minimalism', really set the scene for what would inevitably constitute an evening of attentive, informative service and truly exceptional cuisine...

Date and Time: Tuesday 2^nd October 2012, 20:30

Name of Establishment: The Square Kitchen*

Location: 14-15 Berkeley Square, Bristol

Reason for Visit: An unmissable opportunity to sample the Square Kitchen's Autumn/Winter Tasting Menu 'on the house' - though you should know that this has not, in any way, affected the review that follows...

Course One – Canapés

Truffle and thyme popcorn / Pea and ham Soup / Mackerel tartare with horseradish and cucumber

Though perhaps better described as appetisers due to how generously they had been portioned, the trio of canapés were a fantastic introduction to the level of fine-dining that my companion and I were to be treated to throughout the course of the evening. Furthermore, the attention to detail more-than set the bar for the courses to come and the experimental undertones to the varying attributes of the dish hinted at the playful nature of the theme for the evening. Most importantly though, everything was delicious – winning beginnings indeed!

Course Two – Appetiser

Seared scallop, raisin, Granny Smith

It's not often that I'm speechless (those who know me well will vouch for this) but I can honestly say that this was the most perfectly-executed scallop that I've tasted to date whereby its tender yet juicy composition had been appropriately accented with the zing of ripened apple; and this, delicately slithered so not to overpower the dish. I'm not sure that I could detect the raisin content but this certainly didn't dampen what was otherwise a triumph which essentially left us wanting more!

Course Three - Start

Battenberg of foie gras, ham hock and confit duck with piccalilli, apricot and chopped hazelnut

This course demonstrated as much skill in its construction as it did knowledge of the varying tastes and textures that would suitably complement each other. The image below really doesn't do the dish any justice as the flavoursome 'bricks' of rich-tasting charcuterie altogether facilitated that distinctive checkered battenberg effect. That said, although the ham hock and confit duck were unanimously well-received, the rich, creamy fragrance of the foie gras was deemed a little overpowering and, in some cases, left untouched by the more ethical diners in our midst. 

Course Four – Fish

Cornish turbot, pommes mousseline, pork belly and sea garnish

Combining crispy pork belly with the delicate flakiness of fresh turbot was, in my view, a touch radical and yet, with the creamiest potato purée known to man tying both aspects together it most definitely worked – you could say a contemporary take on the concept of 'surf 'n turf'!

Course Five – Meat

Venison, salsify, soil, snails, herbs, flowers and nettles

I must admit that I was both daunted and intrigued by the premise of this particular ensemble; though, imaginatively assembled to replicate a wind-swept, fall-blooming garden, it proved as visually alluring as it was appetising...Now, I’ve never eaten snails without an ample dousing of garlic butter and so, left with their naturally occurring earthiness, I can safely say that I'm not a fan! That said, the venison coupled with the make-shift soil (which had been created from de-hydrated mushrooms we later discovered) was simply fantastic.

Course Six – Pre-Dessert

Pear and whiskey with home-made sherbert

The novelty-factor of adding sherbert to a bitter-sweet concoction of pear and whiskey comprised a subtly fizzy and suitably refreshing palate-cleanser...just lovely!

Course Seven – Dessert

Thai-curry flavours: Ginger cake / Lime leaf ice cream / Lemongrass custard / Coconut and coriander panna cotta

Controversially, though dessert is usually the highlight of any meal (well for me at least), this was in fact, my least favourite of the seven courses. I think that the dominant fragrances of coriander and lime-leaf are an acquired taste at the best of times and as part of a dessert, additionally so! I also thought that the spicy meringues were a touch too far....I mean, I'm all for creativity when it comes to coupling and contrasting savoury flavours but when it comes to pudding, I'm clearly a traditionalist at heart!

To note that the Tasting Menu will set you back £55 and an accompanying wine flight is available at £19 per person. On this occasion however, I opted for a large glass of the Bosari Inzolia (£5.50 for 250ml); selected with the helpful tasting notes that categorise the more-than ample line-up of vinos. The cocktail menu is also rather enticing with a varied spectrum of composites; ranging from the familiar modern classics to the venue's avant-garde creations.

In conclusion, it's fair to say that my dining companion and I were both suitably wowed by our experience of the Square Kitchen; enjoying the overall ambiance of the establishment and, of course, the fare – which we later learned is locally sourced (where possible); utilising free-range organic Devon Rose meat and Brixham fish. Furthermore, the intended aesthetics of the seasonally-driven theme were entirely achieved and although this was perhaps taken to the extreme in places, it unquestionably showcased the imagination and culinary skill of Head Chef Gavin Lewis and his team. It's ironic that to be considered 'a square' is to be regarded as dull and rigidly conventional as judging from the dishes experienced on the evening in question, courtesy of what is without question, an innovatively assembled Tasting Menu, it's established ethos is anything but...!

And now for the second opinion...

My dining companion gave the Square Kitchen a rating of 9/10 and in three words, described the fare as, 'imaginative and well-presented'.

References:

*http://thesquareclub.com/square-kitchen/