A Taste of Dinewithi – Tim's Sunday Roast

The first day of the fourth month may well be associated with 'April Fools' but I'm sure you'll agree that when it comes to good food, it's no laughing matter! With this is mind, The Best Foodie Friend (BFF) and I were keen to accept an invitation to sample the culinary expertise of one half of the Dinewithi venture; a supper club and pop-up restaurant fronted by local chef, Tim Owen and marketer, Carlton Jefferis that has been tantalising the taste buds of Bristol's enthusiastic 'foodie' community; predominantly from gastronomical go-to, 40 Alfred Place...

Date and Time: Sunday 1^st April 2012, 17:30

Name of Establishment: Dinewithi*

Location: Tim's Totterdown-based residence

Reason for Visit: A taster of the Dinewithi experience

With its name stemming from the notion of how a Bristolian might colloquially refer to the Channel 4 hit series; 'Come Dine with Me', Dinewithi aims to provide beautifully cooked and locally sourced fare which is both unfussy and flavoursome. Thus, an ambitious ethos to adhere to but, upon entering Tim's humble abode whereby the initial blast of fantastic food smells emanated from the kitchen, it become at once believable. Furthermore, sitting around a tastefully dressed table within an aesthetically pleasing and atmospherically lit dining room, we were invited towards an 'amuse bouche' of avocado hummous which, accented with sharp citrus notes and a touch of chilli, had been generously applied to crisp, oil-infused crostinis; a combination which amply refreshed the palate for the courses to come. Next up, a halved and unmistakably home-made scotch egg; rustically composed and altogether satisfying given its abundantly meaty filling whereby good-quality pork had been coupled with well-seasoned salami; yum! What's more, served alongside a dollop of wild garlic mayonnaise as well as a small mound of sweet and smoky caramelised onions, it's fair to say that the medley of contrasting tastes and textures here really packed a punch!

The main event constituted Confit of Duck which was beautifully executed; the meat all but falling off the bone. Accompanied with fluffy-middled duck-fat roasties and the bitter-sweet appeal of braised red cabbage, as well as a communal vessel of vichy carrots, (served al dente and therefore, just how I like them) and a dash of parsnip and parmesan purée, there was certainly a lot going on. That said, the elements had been thoughtfully arranged so to compliment each other within each mouthful. An apple and pear sauce, seasoned with fresh juniper completed the ensemble, along with a dousing of rather intense gravy – hence, this was perhaps not as 'unfussy' as initially proposed but in fact, certainly not to its detriment given that this really was a truly outstanding plate of food.

Before I move onto dessert, I feel that I must talk to you about the man behind what was currently shaping up to be an incredible dinner...Tim himself is quite a character, lending to the occasion his vibrant personality which is reflected somewhat in the no-nonsense approach to his cuisine. And, as the evening progressed and the wine (fuelled by a B.Y.O policy) continued to flow, we were treated to a repertoire of musical snippets which were strummed out upon Tim's acoustic guitar; an occurrence (ironically a little like the after-dinner entertainment commonplace within an episode of the aforementioned namesake) which even led to a little sporadic sing-song, (when we knew the words that is!) Thus, as a chef, we're definitely talking the sweary charm of Gordon Ramsay rather the doe-eyed innocence of Jamie Oliver but, nevertheless, this made for a fun, laid-back evening whereby Tim and his wife Theresa were both hospitable and fully integrated with the evening's proceedings.

And now, onto the eagerly anticipated dessert course which, at least on my part, would function as soothing relief for my chocoholic self! In Tim's words, we were to tell him if we ever found, “a better fucking chocolate cake anywhere else” - indeed, a rather assuming statement and yet, I have to say that the Piedmonte Chocolate Orange Moussecake that had been set before me, with its crown of Grand Marnier cream and the drizzled tang of an orange reduction, really was up there with the best I have ever tasted, (not that I would dare to inform Tim had this not been the case!) Yes, with its rich, gooey, truffle-like disposition; which had been offset against its coarsely-textured ground chestnut content, this was pudding-porn and then some...!

Overall, this was not an experience for the faint-hearted – it was raucous, boozy and, in my view, a lot of fun but, solely based upon the evening’s etiquette, (albeit lacking on this occasion), wouldn't necessarily be to everyone's taste...That said, a formal 'restaurant' setting would no doubt alter the ambience somewhat and there is no denying the quality of the cuisine which is quite simply fantastic; proving well-presented, appropriately portioned and above all, utterly delicious. Given that the next pop-up appearance of Dinewithi (scheduled for the 25^th April 2012 at 40 Alfred Place and at only £25 a head) is set to be well-attended, you better get a move on if you want to bag a ticket – otherwise, you may find yourself in a similar predicament to Tim and Theresa's little cat who, for the duration of our meal watched us dine from beyond the reinforced glass of the patio doors...and no one wants that....!

References:

*http://dinewithi.com/

Bacchanalia Supper Club, Clifton – Bristol

Upon researching the definition of Bacchanalia and discovering that it refers to a riotous or boisterous festivity laced with aspects of drunken tomfoolery, I was somewhat unsure of what to expect from this particular foodie foray. Yet, as the newest addition to the diverse line-up of Bristol-based Supper Clubs, I was curious to see how it measured up…

Date and Time: Saturday 10^th December 2011, 19:15 for 19:45

Name of Event: Bacchanalia Supper Club

Location: The Clifton-based home of Chris Jarvis*; our chef for the evening

Reason for visit: Bristol’s newest supper club required willing (and hungry) attendees for its ‘Trial Run’…as fitting candidates; the Best Foodie Friend (BFF) and I were keen to participate!

Arriving as we have become accustomed, via a scrawled address on a scrap of paper and the navigational genius of ‘Google Maps’, The BFF and I were warmly welcomed into the smartly-decorated basement flat of our host, Chris. On this occasion, he was joined by his ex-housemate Bryn* who, as a wine merchant and blogger with operatic tendencies, had agreed to lend his expertise to the 'front-of-house duties'. After our coats had been whisked away and an aperitif of crisp Prosecco set before us, we settled into our allocated seats in the intimately-arranged makeshift dining room, (whereby a view of the chef at work told a story of calm and control) and at once, any preconceptions of typical ‘lad-pad’ disorder became entirely redundant. Sitting communally, The BFF and I befriended our fellow diners; many whom, as neighbours, had previously sampled Chris’s culinary creations and subsequently, shared with us their high expectations of the evening ahead. This, coupled with the distinctive smell of festive fare (which teased us from the nearby kitchen), whetted our appetites for the courses to come and initiated the intended dinner party-style etiquette – an etiquette which gathered momentum as the starter made an entrance; succulent goujons of Cornish Whitebait with dill mayonnaise and a garnish of fresh parsley which was served in a large bowl and passed around the table in a friendly help-yourself fashion.

Further courses equally wowed the group; a wonderfully flavoursome spiced Roast Celeriac soup featuring the sweet notes of amontillado sherry and to follow, Bitton Farm Roast goose served with quince compote and roasted winter vegetables. The latter could have been a little more imaginatively presented but there was no question that the quality of the ingredients bought-in and facilitated as well as the execution of the dishes themselves was spot on. We also learned of the locally-sourced nature of the produce; with ‘Reg the Veg’* (a family run green-grocers situated in Clifton Village) and St. Nicholas’ Market’s Source Food Hall and Café* both playing a part in the top-notch nature of the cuisine. Similarly, the arrangement of the cheese board had been thoughtfully determined and featuring the likes of Dorset Blue Vinney, Brie and Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire cheddar, complimented the Sloe and Cranberry Fruit cheeses and constituted a real treat – in fact, the concept of taking one's plate to the head of the table and discussing the varieties and combinations on offer was, for me, almost reminiscent of a festal family buffet – great stuff! Fluffy Clementine Pudding completed the bill and correctly encompassing a fluffy top and creamy clementine base, as per the recipe followed from Irish chef, Darina Allen's cookbook, (which Chris assured us is a treasured possession), this proved both warming and homely without possessing a heavy disposition...heavenly!

It has to be said that service was impeccable throughout the evening – Bryn was on-hand to ensure that each course was well received and the overall ambiance was relaxed and chatty. The BFF was even treated to an alternative starter due to her aversion to seafood; a momentary issue that was seamlessly remedied with a tasty mushroom dish which she described as 'delicious', (especially given its quick turnaround at such short notice).

I think there were certain aspects of the evening that either lacked a little polish or, arguably, could have benefited from a degree of female intervention (given, of course, that this Supper Club is delivered in a predominantly male domain) - come on, we all know that women are drawn to aesthetics and men, the practicalities of a situation! We’re talking minor details though such as; antithetical crockery, brown office-y looking envelopes in which to leave your contribution (a suggested £30 if you're wondering) and the presentation of certain dishes which left little to be desired – yes, regrettably on the large part, I'm referring to the pudding! Yet, that aside, as a trial run, the evening ran smoothly which resulted in a laid-back and wholly enjoyable atmosphere. Guests were fuelled with a number of complimentary tipples including the aforementioned Prosecco, a beautifully rich fortified wine to compliment the cheese board (Pineau des Charentes) and an after-dinner brandy – all of which put our B.Y.O contributions to shame, (that is, apart from the superb Morello Cherry Eau de Vie that one of the guests allowed us to sample!) Furthermore, although Chris himself is not an established chef, having inspirationally abandoned his nine-till-five desk job to peruse a number of ventures more suited to his interests with his passion for cooking at the forefront, his food is unquestionably of a commendable standard. He mentioned that the next two Bacchanalia Supper Club evenings, (scheduled, at present, for Friday 27^th and Saturday 28^th January 2012) will comprise more of a themed approach and, with plenty of ideas in the pipeline thereafter, perhaps these will channel more of the untamed revelry that I was anticipating. Alas however tame this particular evening proved (which I have to say, for me, was quite a relief), Chris certainly achieved what he set out to do; he showcased his ability to host an evening of great food within comfortable surroundings and alongside a range of like-minded souls – Bacchanalia may well be a hidden gem at present but with time (and possibly a little practice), it will undoubtedly prove a real contender in the growing tradition of the Bristol Supper Club….

And now for the second opinion…

The BFF gave the Bacchanalia Supper Club a rating of 8/10 and in three words, described the evening as 'cosy', 'tasty' and 'buzzing'.

Christmas is coming and the goose is getting fat...

Lovely Soup

References:

* Contact Chris at bacchanalia37@yahoo.co.uk
* Follow Bryn on Twitter - @cellarratbryn  

*http://www.regtheveg.co.uk/

*http://www.source-food.co.uk/

The Bravas Supper Club Experience

Following a fantastic evening at the Bishopston Supper Club a Month or so previously, I was eager to indulge in another culinary foray of this kind; taking my love of top-notch nosh away from the familiarity of the restaurant setting. Cue the Bravas Supper Club whereby Spanish cuisine takes centre stage...what's more, with my lovely mum's birthday just days away, this was the perfect opportunity to avoid the tried and tested chocolate and perfume double act in favour for an experience a lot less predictable and perhaps one which would even secure some serious brownie points...! 

Date and Time: Thursday 17^th November 2011 19:30 for 20:00

Name of Event: Bravas Supper Club*

Location: The lovely harbourside home of Kieran and Imogen Waite

Reason for participation: An edible escapade in line with pre-Birthday celebrations.

Tentatively descending the candlelit stone steps to the basement of the Bravas host's classically stylish riverside pad, mum and I were warmly greeted and shown to our table for two. With tables intimately arranged to separately accommodate each party, I was initially concerned that some of the atmosphere would be lost given that interaction with other supper club attendees did not appear to be part of the etiquette and so, meeting new foodie faces wasn't explicitly on the cards. That said, the interactive nature of the fare, whereby you share no less than ten tapas-style dishes with your dining companion(s) over the course of the evening, compensated somewhat for any intermingling lost as a result of the seating arrangements which, as it happened, were not too dissimilar to that of a restaurant after all. That is, until you catch a glimpse of the action unfolding in the kitchen and at once stand reminded of the undeniable fact that diners have been welcomed (like guests at a dinner party) into the home of this dynamic duo; Kieran, an 'event organiser and well-seasoned host' and Imogen, a talented chef who has mastered her trade amidst some of Bristol's top kitchens. Furthermore, this was a dwelling for which we had only received directions the evening beforehand via an informal yet duly enlightening telephone call; just one of the aspects of an event of this kind which builds on the intrigue and lends an air of exclusivity to the proceedings.

Onto the food and having whetted our appetites with the timely publication of the menu online, the arrival of the appetiser was rather well received; marinated olives and pimention toasted almonds alongside an aperitif of an Averys* Bristol Fashion Amontillado from Jerez (medium-dry sherry to you and me). This instantly set the bar in regards to the calibre of the cuisine and yet, it became apparent that each earthenware vessel set before us thereafter would contain courses of equal impressiveness. From the simplistic yet beautifully executed grilled hake with lemon to the phenomenally flavoursome seared acorn fed pork and rich, meaty offerings of the spiced sausage as well as the oxtail braised in red wine, the range of dishes ultimately encompassed a variety of contrasting tastes and textures yet each fittingly Mediterranean in terms of their composition. The bring-your-own beverage policy (as well as a list of suggested wine matches for the evening) led mum and I to the Sangre de Toro 2009 – a soft and juicy red that seemed to compliment the lighter dishes in particular; for instance, the Beetroot, Pomegranate and Herb salad with its appealing rainbow-effect presentation and fresh, palate-cleansing qualities. To end the evening; a sweet board on which stood two dainty glasses of dessert wine – a Bodega Lustau Pedro Ximenez (also from Jerez) - of which the birthday girl was treated to a cheeky top-up! This indulgent tipple, channelling sweet velvety aromas of fig and raison, had been perfectly coupled with the bite-sized morsels which constituted this course; slices of manchego cheese, two varieties of quince, juicy dates and individual salted chocolate tarts – just divine!

Oxtail Braised in Red Wine with Salted Potato Crisps

In conclusion, another unmissable supper club experience and albeit rather different from the first, I loved what Bravas had brought to the table (ahem)! Despite forgoing a sense of communal foodie-related appreciation (which, to be fair, is not everyone's cup of tea) for a dinner-date with your nearest and dearest, the concept of offering a tantalising line-up of small sharer dishes is suitably genius, (not to mention a snip for a suggested donation of £20-£25). In my opinion it significantly reduces the primary supper club anxiety of committing to dine blindly or, in other words, worrying that one of the courses will not appeal to your palate. Whereas elsewhere this could potentially alienate a quarter of the evening's offerings, the nature of the Bravas menu ensures that you still have a further nine dishes to delight in if one does not especially suit, (incidentally, it was the Radicchio for me which, quite simply, is not to my taste). Overall though, the sheer dedication involved in plating ten different dishes is a triumph in itself, as too is the friendly and laid-back ambiance which is so effortlessly achieved – my thanks go out to Kieran and Imogen for a truly fantastic supper – I certainly can't wait for the next installment...hasta luego!

And now for that all-important second opinion...

Mum gave the Bravas Supper Club 10/10 and in three words described her evening as a 'really special experience'.

 References:

*http://www.facebook.com/BravasBristol

*http://www.averys.com/

The Bishopston Supper Club Experience

Date and Time: Friday 30^th September 2011, 19:30

Name of Event: Bishopston Supper Club*

Location: The Bishopston-based home of local chef, Danielle Coombs (A.K.A The Resting Chef)

Reason for Visit: An evening of highly-acclaimed cuisine outside of a restaurant setting

Initially, I wasn't going to review my visit to the Bishopston Supper Club, be it, in my opinion, an under-ground dining occasion whereby a blow-by-blow account of the proceedings would surely thwart the build-up of intrigue and excitement that one should be left to experience for themselves. On the other hand, I simply couldn't let such a top-notch evening remain entirely undocumented and after all, I would hate for you to miss out on a truly unique way of satisfying your inner 'foodie' whilst meeting like-minded souls over exceptional, seasonally-inspired and locally-sourced cuisine. Beforehand, I suppose you could say that I was anticipating a less amateurish version of Come Dine With Me; without the narration and rummaging for scandal of course! In fact it became clear that this comparison was a little unjust as the evening unfolded; I mean, you are thrown together with a group of unfamiliar faces in the host's own pad and yet, as the host herself is an established chef and in her own words, has lost count of how many Supper Club evenings she has fronted, it really is like stepping into a very intimate bistro or even, arriving at a friend's dinner party, (albeit in this case, sitting elbow-to-elbow with those whom will become your 'gastro-fam' for the evening!)

Arriving at the address we were given just a week previously and powered somewhat by Google-Maps, the Best Foodie Friend (BFF) and I received a warm-welcome and were shown to the dining room which had been thoughtfully (and comfortably) arranged in two tables of eight. As the evening progressed, the conversation flowed (as did the drinks courtesy of the B.Y.O alcohol policy!) and although the BFF and I were actually reunited with a past acquaintance, we were also pleased be in the company of a table full of friendly fellow foodies. Danielle has worked hard to create a laid back space for her guests and facilitated by the obvious attention to detail from the 'mood' lighting to an ever-present soundtrack of old-school nostalgia, it certainly constitutes the desired effect

As for the food itself, I will not go into too much detail but I will tell you this; although the menu's four-courses are posted on the Supper Club's website about a week before the evening in question, it's all about their presentation, poise and overall, their deliciousness! There are also a couple of additional surprises that really add the wow factor – on this occasion, these included an amuse-bouche of freshly prepared scotch eggs and later in the evening, a palate cleansing, and particularly pungent, home-made elderberry vodka that left us all a little red in the face! Consequently, it may prove a little strange to commit to paying for a meal whereby you have no control over the courses, (unless, of course, you predetermine a specific dietary requirement or express a particular disliking of something) and yet, if, like me, you put a little faith in your stomach and like surprises, you certainly wont be disappointed by the imagination and fundamentally, the quality behind the Bishopston Supper Club's bespoke menus.

That said, if you are a proper fuss-pot when it comes to food, I would probably venture that this concept is not for you and yet, if this is the case you may be better placed at Danielle's new-found Sunday lunch club which, offering the classically cosy roast dinner with all the trimmings, will be held once a Month from the 16^th October. There are also special Supper Club dinners whereby each course is offered alongside a complimentary vino (selected by the lovely folk at Gloucester Road's Grape and Grind*) or in addition to a specific variety of cider (brought to you from the brains behind Bristol Cider Shop*) – check our the website for details! And so whatever your dining preference; whether you're a traditionalist, a little avant-garde or, in fact, anything else in between, there is something here for everyone...and what's more, delivered in a far more novel setting than your run-of-the-mill High-Street eatery. For me, it's all about new and exciting places in which to sample the best of Bristol's cuisine and this experience, although I'll admit that at first I wasn't sure what to expect, was a real treat.

References:

*http://restingchef.wordpress.com/

*http://www.grapeandgrind.co.uk/

*http://www.bristolcidershop.co.uk/

Tart after Dark – Spanish Supper Evening

The Best Foodie Friend (BFF) and I have become rather accustomed to Tart Café and Foodstore's Monthly 'after-hours' supper club and as this particular instalment promised the beautiful sun-drenched tastes of Spanish cuisine, we didn't hesitate to register our interest. One might say, not wanting to miss out on extending the Summertime which, for the most part, had dissolved into Autumnal chill within the blink of an eye.

Date and Time: Thursday 22^nd September 2011, 19:30

Name of Establishment: Tart Café and Foodstore*

Location: 16 The Promenade, Gloucester Road-Bristol

Reason for Visit: Tart after Dark Spanish Supper Evening

I always love stepping into the calm Parisian precision of Tart – so fresh and neat in its décor that it feels a million miles away from the quirky mish-mash of its Gloucester Road setting. On this occasion, tables were simplistically arranged; each dressed with crisp white linen, a single church candle set within bubbled glass as well as a tasteful pairing of blooms spilling from a dainty miniature vase. It is the effortless sophistication here that never fails to impress; creating an air of calm within what had become a real hubbub of bodies and voices...apparently the BFF and I were not the only ones reminiscent of those hot Mediterranean evenings...

Upon being seated, we were treated to an aperitif of Colosia Fino sherry, served over ice in a champagne flute. This was a refreshing start and well-received, especially as this would constitute the only alcohol the BFF and I would indulge in (be it a school night) despite the fact that Darren Willis from nearby Grape and Grind* had again put together a list of suitably matched wines to compliment each course. Furthermore, introductory tipples had been supplemented with small bowls of Manzilla olives and roasted almonds – a nice touch that suitably whetted our appetites for the courses to follow.

First up, the tasting plate of tapas which consisted of a bite-sized Spanish omelette (unanimously considered delightfully fluffy and light), skewered vegetables, a handful of rocket drizzled with sweet balsamic and, the winner of this dish (for me at least), an individual croquette. The latter was perfectly formed; coated with crunchy breadcrumbs which gave way to a wonderfully creamy cheese and spinach filling – yum! However, I was a little perplexed by the vegetable skewer as despite my love-hate relationship with artichoke, it was (upon account of the BFF who ended up with a double portion) well-cooked and earthy and the cherry tomato, along with the black olives, deliciously plump and juicy; I just wasn't sure how the cube of cheese, albeit a good-quality and creamy variety, made it on to the end of the pin. Would it be fair to say that this was a little out of place or is there a specific Spanish tradition that I'm just not aware of, (answers on a postcard perhaps)!?

Tapas Tortilla, Banderillas, Croquetas de Espinacas

No ambiguity when it came to the main course though which unquestionably had the wow factor...melt-in-the-mouth slow braised pork, wrapped with crispy Parma ham and nestled in the centre, an ample wedge of spicy chorizo. This fantastic carnivorous parcel sat on a criss-cross of firm green beans and a saucy medley of tomato, chickpeas and roasted red peppers...not to mention an extra scattering of chorizo for good measure. The rich flavours bursting from this dish were really rather exquisite and, softened almost with a zesty lemon undercurrent, proved fresh yet wholesome – a combination which appropriately captured the sunshiny attributes of Spanish fare alongside the seasonal ingredients sourced and prepared back in good old Blighty. It's also to be noted how beautifully this dish had been plated which, as well sporting a 'proper-portion', (which incidentally the BFF and I now affectionately refer to as 'the Andrew Griffin effect' - Andrew being the head chef at Tart Café and Foodstore) therefore had been commendably balanced; proving both aesthetically pleasing as well as tasty and satisfying. Vegetarians were treated to a pumpkin, chickpea and vegetable stew which, served with saffron rice, sounded warming and flavoursome – I didn't catch a glimpse of this dish in the flesh but then again, I was so taken with my own main course that I’ll admit, at the time, I didn't really give the alternative a thought!

Estofado de Carne de Cerdo, Garbanzos, Chorizo, Pimento asados

As readers of my blog will know, I'm rather partial to the indulgence of dessert and yet, having never sampled yogurt cake thus far, I wasn’t sure what to expect. The result…a light and moistly textured sponge with that homely just-baked warmth – impressively executed especially as Andrew mentioned that he had trialled this dish for the first time just the evening before! Succulent orange segments and the icy zing of lemon granita were welcome accompaniments giving this dessert its citrusy freshness; hence, flavours which complimented the natural cultures of the yogurt entirely – lovely!

Quesada de Yogurt, Granizado de Naranja y Limon

Overall, another top-notch supper club experience courtesy of the 'Tart' team – food to knock your socks off and service which is attentive and as poised as the surroundings are chic. Scheduled for Thursday 27^th October, I've been told that the next menu will constitute an autumnal French theme (further details to be confirmed in due course) and so, best to keep a close eye on the 'Lovely Tart' website as it’s sure to be a sell-out…For now though, thank you to Jennie, Ellen, Andrew and team for a truly enjoyable evening...until next time...!

And now for the second opinion…

The BFF gave the Tart after Dark Spanish Supper evening 9/10 and in three words, described the cuisine as ‘light’, ‘flavourful’ and ‘sunny’.

References:

*http://www.lovelytart.com/

*http://www.grapeandgrind.co.uk/