Bordeaux Quay – V Shed, Canons Way, Bristol

With so many strings to its bow given its status as a restaurant, brasserie, deli and wine bar, as well the home of the Bristol School of Food and Wine, it was unanimously envisioned that Bordeaux Quay would amount to nothing less than a masterpiece in terms of its culinary expertise. Subsequently, with a coveted Groupon* for a three course meal for two at the restaurant within our possession, it was fair to say that the Best Foodie Friend (BFF) and I were really rather excited about this particular dinner-date - with our table booked and the evening in question rapidly approaching, we simply couldn't wait to discover whether this prestigious venue exceeded our high expectations...

Date and Time: Thursday 12^th January 2012, 19:00

Name of Establishment: Bordeaux Quay: The Restaurant*

Location: V-Shed, Canons Way - Bristol

Reason for Visit: Pre-Christmas Groupon purchase which the BFF and I couldn't wait to take advantage of!

Ushered up a grand wooden staircase to the second floor by our smartly attired host, the BFF and I were, in the first instance, invited to indulge in pre-dinner drinks amidst the plushly decorated lounge. Opting to kick-start the proceedings with a French 75 (£9.50) proved to be an exquisite experience; the cocktail itself comprising a decadent combination of Hendricks Gin, fresh lemon juice and sugar with a crisp measure of Perrier-jouët grand brut champagne to constitute a little fizz. However, its piste de resistance was to follow whereby, upon serving, a procedure took place which was as impressive as it was, no doubt, integral to the finished article's important balance of sweetness and tart. As, with a wave of his hands and a spritz or two from a small spray-bottle into the atmosphere above the glass, the bar-tender dispensed a fine mist of citrus oil which lent to the concoction the smell of old-school sherbet lemons and facilitated the fresh, palate-cleansing quality of what I consider the perfect aperitif. The BFF chose an Italian White; a 2009 Verdicchio Classico (Villa Bianchi, Umani Ronchi) which, at £4.50 for 175ml was vibrantly fruity with a distinct nuttiness - lovely.

Next, and with our slightly sipped drinks in tow, The BFF and I were shown to an intimately-placed table-for-two in the venue's elegant restaurant which, we were pleased to find overlooked the twinkling lights of the harbour below. This is a sophisticated space with high ceilings and a spacious ambiance as well as minimalistic décor which is punctuated with contemporary wall art and the odd touch of opulent flair. Tables had been dressed with crisp white linen and each line-up of polished silverware gleamed under the glow omitted from the chunky light fittings overhead which, coupled with sporadic candlelight contributed to an inviting and laid-back vibe. Top-end restaurants can so often lean towards being stuffy resulting in all manner of the 'we are not worthy' practice of whispered conversation but luckily this could not have been further from the case - our server, for instance, proving chatty and sweet as well as courteous and efficient; a rarity which reinforced, somewhat, our first impressions of this venue. To that end, we were firstly invited to choose from a rather well-stocked bread basket which, including the likes of malted sour dough and ciabatta, had been freshly baked on the premises that very morning. Encouraged to take more than just one piece eradicated any sense of adhering to an etiquette (whereby the question of; 'will I look like a glutton if I pile my dainty side-plate with carbs?!' did not have to enter one's mind) and being asked to pick from no less than four types of table water (we chose filtered tap), heightened our awareness of being within the domain of what we recognised as 'fine dining' at its finest!

Complimentary canapés came next which consisted of two pairs of bite-sized morsels; the first, a halved, deep-fried brussel sprout which, sandwiching a thin layer of anchovy paste, constituted an unusual union of two distinctively flavoursome foodstuffs. The second, a puffed gruyère cheese round with a creamy filling also packed quite a punch – in fact, so much so that, it's got to be said, I could have consumed a number more quite happily: yum! This amply whetted our appetites in readiness for the timely arrival of our starters; Root vegetable and roast pepper terrine with romanesco cauliflower for the BFF and Duck liver, mostarda di vaghera and pork terrine for me. Both dishes were beautifully presented, textbook in terms of the presence of colour and contrasting both in texture and taste. With so much going on, my terrine was unbelievably tasty; chunky and satisfying with crisp ciabatta toasts, an aromatic basil purée as well as a generous measure of orange and cranberry chutney to accompany the main event. 

Duck Liver, Mostarda di Vaghera and Pork Terrine

Root Vegetable and Roast Pepper Terrine

Next, and following an appropriate wait between courses, our mains made their grand appearance. I had opted for the Rainbow chard, pine nut and goats cheese rotolo which, brushed with a saffron and sage butter, established a rich array of flavours across a varied spectrum; with low earthy notes giving way to a delicately fragrant after-taste – wow. The BFF had chosen to treat herself to the dish of chargrilled beef fillet, braised shin and oxtail; an experience which rendered her speechless for several minutes! When she regained her poise, she commented that this was, without a doubt, one of the best meals she'd ever had – the meat proving expertly cooked and the grilled polenta and roast garlic purée proving the perfect accompaniments.

Rainbow Chard, Pine Nut and Goats Cheese Rotolo

Finally dessert and the chocolate fondant for me and the duo of strudel for the BFF. Now, it's increasingly commonplace for me to scour a venue's menu in advance of a visit to check for dishes (usually puddings) that particularly appeal, (come on, we all do this, right?!) The downside is the danger of building anticipation; crushable with that first tentative mouthful. Although sometimes, the concept of a pre-planned pud surpasses one's expectations and this was, without a doubt, one of those occasions. A perfectly executed dessert if ever I saw one – moist sponge encasing a warm liquid chocolate centre served alongside an ample scoop of white chocolate ice cream and finished with a dusting of crumbled praline, (whoa, reliving the experience is almost as satisfying!) The ice cream was a marvel in itself; its defined sweetness accented with notes of vanilla just danced on the palate. The BFF was equally as impressed with her strudel – she described the ricotta and raisin fusion as 'decadently creamy' and reported that coupling pear with macademia nut brought about a tasty, full-bodied flavour. A frosty ball of apple sorbet completed her dish; it's refreshing zing proving an interesting angle to the originality of its overall arrangement.

Duo of Strudel

Chocolate Fondant

Consequently, a fantastic night at a top-end restaurant; the faultless fare, polished yet comfortable surroundings and personable service made for an unforgettable experience. A glimpse at the price tags allocated to the dishes we had ordered warranted that sharp intake of breath; prices which, of course, were not applicable on this particular evening due to our beloved Groupon print-out. For a special occasion however - one that demands the wow-factor - this is clearly the place to book a table! Given that the restaurant's menu is altered Monthly in order to facilitate fresh, seasonal produce and to promote the provenance of the ingredients sourced, there is enough in terms of diversity to keep Bordeaux Quay's loyal following on-board. This, in addition to the fact that there are other aspects of this establishment to explore, (which, if the attention to quality is universal, will be well worth a visit), has certainly made me eager to return – the only problem is, with such a fantastic foodie foray to mark the beginning of 2012; the benchmark for fine dining has been well and truly set, I challenge Bordeaux Quay's counterparts to even come close...!

And now for the second opinion...

The BFF gave Bordeaux Quay a rating of 10/10 and in three words, described her evening as, 'rich', 'refined' and 'sublime' – praise indeed and deservingly so.

References:

*http://www.groupon.co.uk/deals/bristol

*http://www.bordeaux-quay.co.uk/restaurant

Harvey Nichols' Second Floor Restaurant, Quakers Friars

To say I was intrigued by the second floor restaurant at Bristol's Boutique Harvey Nichols' store was an understatement. I'd heard stories of carpeted walls and glitzy metallic décor as well as experiences whereby a distinct lack of atmosphere and questionable service had a somewhat negative impact. Yet, all the critiques I had read had one thing in common; they all agreed that the cuisine itself was of a very high standard, which I suppose one would expect from a venue which constitutes a prestigious UK institution. Consequently, the Best Foodie Friend (BFF) and I proceeded to book-up a table in order to suss out this venue for ourselves and, as the elevator 'ding' marked the second floor, it would be fair to say that we were really rather excited...

Date and Time: Tuesday 26th July 2011, 19:30

Name of Establishment: Harvey Nichols Second Floor Restaurant*

Location: Quakers Friars, Bristol

Reason for Visit: Dinner date with the BFF

Passing the cordoned-off areas and glass fronted displays of vintage bubbly into the restaurant, the initial feature which is somewhat obtrusive is the colour-scheme. Decked out in gold from the ceiling to the plushy carpet underfoot and everything else in between, (including the walls which are indeed textured), it's reasonable to describe this space as unnecessarily extravagant, especially when the evening sun pours through the full windows casting the whole space in an amber haze! Not that this meant that the BFF and I weren't comfortable; quite the contrary as we were quite content, especially considering the appeasing ambiance created by cushy furniture and the chill-out soundtrack overhead. 

Boldly Gold

Given the apprehension created by the accounts I’d read, it can be noted that the BFF and I found the service during our visit to be both polite and efficient. Despite the minor niggle that our coats were not taken and instead, sat next to us within the booth-style seating for the duration of the evening, we were pleased overall with the upbeat attitude of our particular waitress who proved a smiley asset to the evening's proceedings. Menus were dispensed and a choice between the à la carte, whereby main courses average £15, and the 'prix fixe' which offers two courses for £16 or three for £19. The latter comprises a choice from three options in the case of each course and includes complimentary canapés as standard. BFF and I were uncharacteristically in sync on this particular evening, both settling for two courses from the set menu and choosing the same main and dessert (though, more of that later). We also decided against a supplementary vino on this occasion but casually noted the range of champagnes on offer, the vintage variety coming in at a mere £1750 a pop – I'll take two! After ordering, our canapés arrived; melt-in-the-mouth parmesan sable biscuits and cheddar gougères which, essentially savoury profiteroles, were delicately textured and subtly cheesy to contrast the punchy notes of its parmesan coupling. Clearing the empty sharing plate signalled the arrival of the bread basket and a choice between sweet rolls, sliced soda bread or salted focaccia. The latter was an obvious choice for me and, proving fresh and delicious, I just had to ask for seconds to accompany my main course.

Cheesy Canapés

Main courses arrived and the courgette fritters, which were stacked under their triangular canopy of fried feta, were served alongside courgette ribbons, a soft herb salad, a dollop of dill mascarpone and finished with a beetroot dressing. This was simply beautiful both in terms of its colour and its arrangement. I loved the complexities which existed in terms of contrasting textures and tastes as well as the Greek-inspiration behind the nature of marrying together the different elements; the underlying bitter-sweet bite of lemon against the freshness of dill and the rich tang of feta. The BFF and I were particularly pleased that we had ordered a side of Cornish new potatoes with English butter and Cornish sea salt (£3.25) to share as they were the perfect accompaniment to the smooth mascarpone. All-in-all, indubitably resting within the fine dining remit but without the stingy portion sizes that one would normally associate with this genre of cuisine – subsequently, this dish left me feeling satisfied and enthusiastic about what was to follow….

Main Course - easy on the eye as well as the stomach!

There was rather a long wait between main and dessert courses and although we weren’t in a hurry, this did build a real sense of expectant appreciation for the Valrhona Chocolate Mousse we had opted for but had yet to sample. Upon first mouthful though it was evident that this glutinous pud would fully live up to our hopeful preconceptions – made, we were told, with olive oil, this stick-to-the-roof-of-your-mouth indulgence was perfectly textured and hard-hitting with the richness of good-quality dark chocolate; the result of which was an almost intoxicating kick! Finished with a fennel biscuit (which the BFF suggested was a little too elusive in terms of the usual distinctness of its aniseed flavour) and a flourish of mint, this dessert was the highlight of the meal for me and really took my experience of this venue from fantastic, to simply outstanding. 

Chocolaty Heaven

I think that Head Chef Louise McCrimmon’s creative flair for putting together a menu which ticks all the boxes in terms of taste whilst focusing on high quality, locally-sourced ingredients is offered so reasonably that it perhaps explains why the venue was so well attended on the evening of our visit. Initially, this is where Harvey Nichols’ exclusive reputation may have hindered it with many perhaps dismissing the restaurant as too expensive. However, word has obviously gotten out and rightly so because there really is something to tantalise the taste-buds within the most platonic of palates. After all, metallic flamboyances aside, this is a venue which had me planning my next visit before I'd even returned to its ground floor exit (I certainly want to come for brunch – buttermilk pancakes with smoked back bacon and maple syrup at just £4.50 – yes please!). To sum up, I may not be able to stretch to the cost of its designer handbags, nor can I do little more than ogle the Jimmy Choos from afar, but I can certainly afford Harvey Nichols; cuisine - at last, I have discovered an aspect of the 'bling' that is comfortably within my grasp!

And now for the second opinion…

The BFF gave Harvey Nichols' Second Floor Restaurant a rating of 9/10 and in three words, described her experience as 'pretty', 'modern' and, of course...'gold'!

I just couldn't resist...!

References:

*http://www.harveynichols.com/restaurants/second-floor-bristol

To note: At the moment, the second floor restaurant is offering a deal whereby children, when accompanied by an adult, can dine for free from Head Chef Louise McCrimmon’s Children’s menu – great stuff!

Brasserie Blanc - Quaker's Friars, Bristol

Mentioning that I had rounded up a group of work colleagues for an evening of posh nosh at Brasserie Blanc, located within Bristol’s historic Quaker’s Friars square, was met with one of two reactions. Either with awe, inspired by the assumption of an impending special occasion, or simply a sharp intake of breath implying the anticipated financial sting. This venue certainly has a reputation for being prestigious and expensive - the latter somewhat unsupported by the available ‘Dine with Wine’ menu with which you can enjoy three courses and a glass of wine for under twenty quid. In fact, it was this very deal that gave me the final push to book a table and so it came to be that we would discover whether Brasserie Blanc would live up to the aforementioned preconceptions or alternatively, if it could offer the ‘everyday’ diner high-quality food at a price that wouldn’t break the bank…

Date and Time: Monday 6^th June 2011, 19:30

Name of Establishment: Brasserie Blanc

Location: The Friary Building, Cabot Circus-Bristol

Reason for Visit: Meal with Work Colleagues

There is no doubt that Raymond Blanc and his team fell on their feet when they were given the go-ahead to occupy this site – a converted Georgian Meeting House with two medieval halls, (built in the 13^th and 14^th Century and previously used by Bristol Guilds). With high ceilings and period features, you can't help but marvel at what is, a truly stunning setting in which to dine. It is also commendable that the décor has been tastefully arranged so not to take away from the grandeur of the architecture and even the ambient background music had been carefully selected to compliment the ethos of the restaurant itself.

Upon arriving, our party learned that our booking had been lost as a result of teething problems with the new online booking system. Luckily we were still able to be seated despite how busy the space had become, (something which I considered unusual for a Monday evening in Bristol!) We also learned that staff here are very accommodating, in fact almost a little over-attentive – whilst waiting for our full company to arrive we were asked by no less than four different members of staff whether we wanted drinks! However, this transpired into faultless service throughout the evening – there were always a multitude of servers on-hand who, it seemed, were more than happy to help.

Attentions turning to the food, our party (bar three) opted to eat from the 'Dine with Wine' menu whereby two courses were £13.50 and three, £15.95 with the option to add a glass of wine for as little as £1.95, (the top-end of this deal offers a glass of Joseph Perrier Champagne for £4.70). Whilst we waited, three baskets of sourdough were brought to the table – this was delicious but the lack of side-plates made for an awkward (and messy) approach to buttering it. The presence of extra virgin olive oil (presumably for dipping) also seemed a little pointless when there was nowhere to put it! One member of our party started with the trio of dips from the aperitif menu (consisting of saffron garlic mayonnaise, balsamic vinegar and a wonderfully course olive paste tapenade) which I just had to insist on sampling – consequently, I suggest that future diners share this aperitif to make the most of the bread basket...especially in light of what came next...

Main courses were served promptly and I had opted for the whiting fillet. This was well-presented and the fish itself was beautifully cooked with a smoky flavour. However, the accompanying ham hock was not very generously portioned and a little fatty in places and the parsley sauce (which due to it's lack of viscosity could not really be described as a sauce), drowned the peas and robbed the cubed new-potatoes of their intended crispiness. It was a shame as the flavours married well, providing a desirable contrast between the light, fresh taste of the veg and the indulgent buttery richness of the 'sauce'. Yet, the whole dish was just too soggy which suppressed the otherwise appealing ingredients. Unfortunately, other diners had a similar problem; one member of our party had to send her fish cake back to be (for want of a better word) drained, as the accompanying salad had obviously been dressed a little too liberally – not a great accompaniment to what should have been a crunchy breadcrumb finish. Those who chose from the à la carte menu also selected side-dishes which in all honesty were required in order to pad out fairly stingy main courses. In light of this, it was reported that although the new-potatoes were buttery and firm, the French Fries were a little dry and very salty! The winner of the evening was the slow braised Beef Provencal with pilaf rice – those who favoured this agreed that the meat was tender and the dish wonderfully flavoursome overall, (in fact, the only criticism here was that there just wasn't enough of it!)

Fish Cake - £12

Beef Provencal - DwW Menu

Whiting Fillet - DwW Menu

With the majority of us left less than satisfied by our main courses, it was such a relief to unanimously agree that the dessert course constituted a very different experience. The hot chocolate mousse with pistachio ice cream, (a popular choice for our table) had been perfectly executed so that it arrived piping hot, yet with the scoop of ice cream un-melted and intact in the centre. The mousse was just gorgeous with a rich, chocolaty flavour that was enhanced by it's warmth and an indulgent texture - heavier than you would expect mousse to be but not to its detriment as this really was the highlight of the evening. Others had opted for the lemon posset and pistachio soufflé which were also well-received.

Pistachio Soufflé- £5.50

Hot Chocolate Mousse - DwW Menu

In conclusion, you can eat at Brasserie Blanc without a significant drain on your finances if you select dishes from the 'Dine with Wine' menu but if one were to deviate from this, it really is rather expensive, (especially as you have to fork out for side-dishes which really, should be served as standard alongside your main meal). Admittedly, there were some significant problems with the food itself which I would consider poor for a restaurant of this calibre – our visit resulted in a real mixed bag of reviews, indicating how 'hit and miss' our experience had been. Would I visit again?....Yes, but not in a hurry and only if I had enough money in my pocket to choose from the à la carte menu. Brasserie Blanc have got the atmosphere and the service spot-on so perhaps a little attention to the delivery of it's dishes is required in order to bring them to the standard of the other high-level attributes of this venue.

And now for the second opinion...

I asked a fellow diner to comment – she gave Brasserie Blanc 7/10 and in three words, chose to describe her experience as, 'a little disappointing'.

References:

* http://www.brasserieblanc.com/