Boston Tea Party – Cheltenham Road, Bristol

Sandwiched between Stoke's Croft and Monpellier, the newest of the Boston Tea Party family lends itself to the local community; a welcome pit-stop from the early morning rush to the early evening wind-down. On this occasion, The Boy and I found ourselves amidst that first band of clientèle; bleary-eyed, pre-caffienated and each in dire need of a substantial breakfast...

Date and Time: Wednesday 26^th October 2011, 7:50

Name of Establishment: Boston Tea Party (BTP)*

Location: 156 Cheltenham Road, Bristol

Reason for Visit: That all-important culinary kick-start to the day!

Although it's the eleventh outlet of the BTP fleet, Cheltenham Road's version is a perfect example of what those behind this popular South West chain have set out to achieve. Describing every café as a 'one-off' in that its inspiration is derived from its immediate surroundings, this particular branch oozes a distinctive urban vibe and proudly displays art work courtesy of the local talent – thus, fittingly striving to retain an independent quality which draws on a concept (somewhat notoriously) renowned within this part of the City. The sporadically panelled reclaimed timber, exposed metal work overhead and mish-mash of furniture which, borrowing an assortment of styles from leather-effect arm chairs to simplistic classroom attire, also reflects the raw, cosmopolitan communities which exist beyond its four walls. Yet, despite the allure of the eclectic, almost edgy, atmosphere created within this space, it has to be said that there are several aspects which have denied the natural elements to permeate its roughed-up interior. Firstly, I'm aware that we are now smack-bang in the deep dankness of winter but regardless of the floor-to-ceiling windows, (that incidentally are opened up in the summertime) the awning which shades the front of the building consistently casts its content in shadow, even if the sun happens to be shining. Furthermore, it's not entirely up-together in terms of cleanliness (The Boy and I had to give our table a good old wipe down prior to eating) and the solid concrete floor constitutes a distinct lack of warmth. All at once, wrapped-up in my winter coat, I found myself longing for the snuggly sofas of the BTP on Park Street - not to mention the peace and quiet of the quaint exterior courtyard as opposed to the industrial-effect metal picnic benches that are bolted down and traffic-facing here...But alas, another postcode brings another experience and so my visit continued...

Breakfast was ordered promptly with the smiley chap at the counter and if the venue itself was lacking in warmth, the service certainly wasn't. Whilst we're on the subject, it’s fair to say that I have never had an undesirable encounter with any of the staff at BTP and thus, I mused that being friendly, efficient and rather partial to a good old chin-wag must be part of the job description! I digress, I opted for the Boston Scotch Pancake stack (£4.95) which layered with an ample portion of applewood smoked bacon and drizzled with maple syrup brought about that sweet meets salt combination that never fails to tantalise my taste buds. However, just as the flavours were perfectly balanced, the pancakes themselves were rather poorly executed; their texture resembling the cardboard rounds of pub beer mats as opposed to the light and fluffy disposition I was anticipating and two of the three featuring varying degrees of burnt; from a little charred to downright incinerated! In fact, if it wasn't for the the other elements which were rich and tasty (the bacon is particular proving good-quality, thickly cut and free of fat), this dish would have bordered on inedible. It didn't get much better for The Boy whose real-time feedback to his 'Eggs Royal' (£6.50) was “meh!” - I'll elaborate as unless you’re on a similar wavelength to The Boy, I doubt this makes much sense. Hence, the dish, comprising The Boy's all-time favourite 'breakfast of champions' was disappointingly average; the eggs which were advertised as 'softly poached' masqueraded as their hard-boiled counterpart and the toasted English muffin was ever-so-slightly lack lustre. The smoked salmon and creamy Hollandaise were satisfyingly flavoursome however and the dish was attractively plated, (though less appealing upon the discovery of a rouge black hair harboured in the arrangement!)

Boston Pancake Stack

Eggs Royal

That said, the coffees we ordered were spot on; a soy cappuccino for him and a skinny latte for me. Both were of an excellent standard and, sourced from 'Extract Coffee Roasters'*; a family-run and Bristol based company, ensued a rich-noted and punchy aroma as well as that strong caffeine hit that The Boy and I had sought after. This is not to mention that the only milk used here is a West Country organic variety – lush! Besides coffee are all the usual suspects including a fragrant range of loose-leaf teas, iced coffees, hot (and chilled) chocolate, smoothies and the best home-made lemonade I have ever tasted! Whilst we're listing positives, I will assure you that I've sampled a host of the available edibles (all in the name of research of course); the imaginatively named and freshly assembled sandwiches for instance of which the Parma Chameleon (think Parma ham, parmesan, roasted tomatoes, basil and lemon and garlic mayonnaise) is my personal favourite. Furthermore, the lunch menu has recently been souped up (so to speak) and besides the sandwiches available from the chiller, there is a varied range of burgers, baps, toasties and yep, you guessed it....an ever-changing soup of the day! In addition to this, I also happen to know that those responsible bake a mean flapjack and the plum crumble cake (bought from the Cheltenham Road BTP no less) is simply divine! Subsequently, the BTP franchise is clearly successful (they're award-winning don’t you know?!); the ever-present buzz within each and every café seems to suggest that the experience that The Boy and I had was a blip and yet perhaps they have simply taken on too much. After all, the focus on a locally sourced and ethically driven menu really shouldn’t warrant such a mediocre experience.

Make mine a Skinny Latte!

In conclusion, perhaps not my favourite visit to BTP – it may well be that this particular establishment has taken the attributes of its neighbouring communities to the extreme whereby the laid-back attitude and grungey-appeal of Stokes Croft has constituted an edginess that proves more chilly than cushy. In terms of its fare, The Boy and I could have simply been privy to forgivable teething problems due to the work-force having so much more to contend with in line with the newly extended menu. Besides, I know from previous visits (to this and other branches) that the quality of the service, comfortable surroundings and range of edibles are characteristically commendable and thus, I would suggest that Cheltenham Road just needs to up its game a little to bring it in line with the overall ethos of the BTP chain that we have all come to know and love.

And now for the male opinion....

The Boy gave Boston Tea Party (Cheltenham Road) a rating of 6/10 and in three words, suggested he would 'Frequent Whiteladies instead'...I think you know what he's getting at!

References:

*http://www.bostonteaparty.co.uk/

*http://www.extractcoffee.co.uk/

Frankie and Benny's – Aspects Leisure Complex, Bristol

To be left with a lasting impression of a particular venue is usually a good thing, but a recent visit to American-Italian chain restaurant, Frankie and Benny's with a group of gal pals (and the Best Foodie Friend – BFF), left an impression of a different kind, a kind which, in the form of indigestion, found me mentally re-visiting my evening here for quite some time afterwards...

Date and Time: Thursday 9^th June 2011, 19:30

Name of Establishment: Frankie and Benny's*

Location: Aspects Leisure Complex, Bristol

Reason for Visit: Birthday meal for a lovely friend

Located in East Bristol's Aspects Leisure Park amidst other such popular chain restaurants as, Nandos, Pizza Hut and Chiquito, Frankie and Benny's gleams with it 's familiar neon signage and red, white and green colour scheme. It's fair to say that the theme of this restaurant is unmistakable, the distinctive American-Italian culture consistently carried through all aspects of the space from it's décor to the 'Learn Italian' CD that plays in the toilets. This is arguably a little cheesy and yet, you can't deny that it creates a fun and friendly ambiance. The 50's vibe, thrown in for good-measure, reflected in the 'rock 'n' roll' style soundtrack, even amounts to dimming the lights and playing Cliffy classic, 'Congratulations' when there is a birthday in-the-house! Furthermore, it can be said that the restaurant is smart, immaculately clean and the booths comfortable to sit in and when the staff also adhere to the restaurant's theme with characteristically flawless (American-inspired) service and a 'happy-to-help' attitude, you can't really complain.

However, when it comes to the food, you certainly can...The main menu is extensive, there is almost too much choice and dishes seem rather expensive upon first-look. There is a fixed price menu which offers two courses from a generous selection at £9.95 and this is what I opted for based entirely on my unfortunate lack of funds at this time! It had been a challenging day and so, comfort food drove my choice towards the double-loaded Pepperoni Pizza. Now, I'm not a chef but I would consider it rather difficult to mess up a pizza with only one topping and yet, this was regrettably the case. The base was soggy and towards the centre of the pizza, it harboured puddles of stodgy cheesiness and grease. I'm aware that pepperoni is an oily meat but had it been prepared in a way which allowed for some of the excess oil to be drained away, it could have been crisp and tasty. Other diners were equally unimpressed; BFF ordered the Lemon Chicken Salad (£9.95) which, although flavoursome, was over-dressed and constituted a minuscule portion given that it cost almost ten pounds. The Sausage Dinner, ordered without vegetables, was served without it's Yorkshire Pudding which we had to ask for, and the BBQ Steak Hot-Baked Wrap (£10.25) had a red onion imbalance meaning that it's apparent twang dominated the other elements of the dish. 

Lemon Chicken Salad

Double Pepperoni Pizza

When it came to dessert, two of our party (myself included) chose the White Chocolate Brownie Sundae – this consisted of two cubes of brownie (albeit a rather nice brownie) which had been frozen solid by the ice cream piled on the top. This made it impossible to eat as cutting through it required a feat of strength that none of us had and to consume the chocolaty cuboid whole would have proven rather unladylike!. A thick crown of synthetic 'squirty' cream finished this dish which left little to be desired due to it's claggy consistency. The lack of the advertised wafer was the final insult to injury and consequently, two half-eaten desserts were left for the servers to clear. 

White Chocolate Brownie Sundae

All in all, Frankie and Benny's, not worth the pennies! It's a shame because I've seen evidence of large-scale chain restaurants getting it spot-on; feeding the masses with high-quality food at a reasonable price and not just falling victim to the concept of getting bums on seats. Perhaps this restaurant could take a leaf out of the book of, say, Beefeater Grill where large parties and families are catered for with well-prepared and tasty classics (see review). I suggest that simplicity is the key here; if Frankie and Benny's were to streamline their menu somewhat, and concentrate on perfecting a smaller suite of dishes, it might well result in better quality all-round. After all, I think that this venue has the ingredients for a perfectly passable eatery and I found no fault with the space itself or the service. But at present, there is not much chance of a re-visit – even if you paid me with Mamma's meatballs!

And now for the second opinion....

BFF gave Frankie and Benny's 4/10 and in three words, described her experience as 'mediocre and pricey'.

References:

*http://www.frankieandbennys.com/

The Botanist, Bristol

Upon first noticing that Ha Ha Bar and Grill on Bristol's Berkeley Square had been boarded up, I must admit that I was a little disappointed. I had been a regular visitor and enjoyed many a meal or post-work beverage at this venue and subsequently, I was rather keen to find out how this space would be repackaged. So, via the venue's Twitter promotion, I proceeded to sign myself, (plus a couple of eager accomplices), up for the launch of Mitchell and Butler's; 'The Botanist', the new occupiers of this site…

Date and Time: Thursday 7th April 201, 18:00
Name of Establishment: The Botanist*
Location: 20a Berkeley Square, Bristol
Reason for Visit: Introduction of a new venue to Bristol's Bar/Restaurant scene

My first impression of The Botanist was certainly a positive one. After collecting flutes of pink prosecco from the main dining room, (a light and airy though unmistakably grand space), our party of three made a beeline for the aptly-named, 'Potting Shed'. This area was quite different from the rest of the venue and particularly appealed due to the cosy and relaxed ambiance created by plush carpet, comfortable seating and colour-changing lighting. I noticed that here, garden-themed, wood-effect wall art had been generously hung which reflected the botanist theme. It felt quite separate from the buzz of other areas - rather like a potting shed would be, which I thought was a nice touch. However, I was told that this corner would normally function as an area for dining which made me wonder how the mood would be altered once tables were added to an already cramped space.  That aside, I liked that you could see the bar from this angle and with that, the enthusiastic attitude of the staff.

Despite the number of people that they had to attend to, the staff ensured that our glasses were never left empty. As well as this, each top-up was issued with a smile and any questions we asked were answered in a friendly and informative manner. As we were attentively fuelled with drinks all evening, we were able to sample a range of tipples and thus, I can report that The Botanist serves a variety of good-quality wines and spirits. Martin Miller's gin* muddled with freshly-squeezed lemon juice and lightly carbonated sugar water was a crisp and refreshing combination and the complimentary mojitos and caprihinas hinted at a promising cocktail menu. The favourite in our circle however, was the Italian Perla Rosa prosecco which had a deliciously delicate sparkle. I anticipated that this would be a little expensive to order on a regular night out due to The Botanist's Clifton pricing but the website states that each Thursday, prosecco will be priced at £15 a bottle which is pretty reasonable in my opinion! A couple of real ales (Doom Bar and Bath Gem) are also served, along with bottled cider, larger and Crabbies' curious alcoholic ginger ale!

Tasters from The Botanist's menu were imaginatively served as canapés throughout the evening. There were a couple of low points such as the arancini risotto balls which were a little greasy and served on a slice of tomato which did little to excite the palate. However, the majority of the tidbits were well received, The Boy particularly liked the contrasting flavours of the smoked salmon with pomegranate molasses and enjoyed the mini portion of fish and chips with tartare drizzle, (minus the addition of several rouge capers!) I thought that the dolcelatte and red onion marmalade tartlet was delicious - a real treat of sweet and rich, cheesy flavours which just melted in the mouth. Later in the evening we sampled hot appetisers; the Luganege Sausage was meaty and seasoned to perfection and the steak, although too pink for my taste, was described by The Boy as 'wonderfully rare and tender'  as well as 'the best he had tasted'. Sweet canapés consisted of bite-size chocolate brownies with clotted cream and finished with a white chocolate curl, (so good I had to go back for thirds) and miniature scones which had a lovely texture and were packed with fruit. All in all I was impressed, and expanding the kitchen, which we were told was to better accommodate cooking locally-sourced ingredients from fresh, was obviously a good move.

I did have a little look at the main menu to gauge what to expect on a day-to-day basis and confess I was a little confused by the arrangement. There seemed to be such a variety of dishes (from 'Mediterranean Mezze' to 'Battered Haddock and Chips') as well as a number of dishes which were almost too fancy - more in keeping with the concept of fine-dining which I'm not sure worked alongside other such options as '2 Pizzas for £10'. Perhaps in covering all bases at the onset of its presence in the Bristol scene, The Botanist is attempting too much rather than focusing on less and achieving more.

In conclusion, I was expecting rustic charm from a venue called The Botanist, defined as, 'a person who specialises in botany' - the study of plant science. I had already considered this theme a little unusual for a bar/restaurant located in the middle of Clifton's social playground and upon spending an evening here, think that although this theme had been supported in places (in the comfy 'Potting Shed' area for example), it had not been consistent throughout. This also transpired to the menu as alluded to above. However, I did have a fantastic evening - the staff in particular are to be commended in regards to their passion for service and for that reason, I'm sure that The Botanist will move from strength to strength in achieving what it has set out to do which for the moment, has perhaps not been fully decided upon.

And now for the second opinion:

The Boy gave The Botanist 8/10 and when asked to describe the venue in three words, chose 'Opening- Night Delight!'

References:
*http://www.thebotanistbristol.co.uk/
* http://www.martinmillersgin.com